The Taranaki Crossing is a new development on Taranaki Maunga. There’s already a Pouakai Crossing there, so is Taranaki spoiled for crossings, or are our tramping habits changing?

The Taranaki Crossing has been developed after a three-year, $13.3 million upgrade of tracks across the mountain’s eastern flank. Funding came from the Provincial Growth Fund (PGF), which aims to foster regional economic growth. Meanwhile, according to shuttle operators, the one-day Pouakai Crossing, which runs from North Egmont across the Pouakai Range to Mangorei Road, is ‘going gangbusters’. One crossing overlaps the other. What’s going on?

Actually, the Taranaki ‘Crossing’ label is a misnomer. Yes, it does ‘cross’ the national park, from Mangorei Road in the north to Dawson Falls in the south. And yes, in total it offers a superb, 25km two-to-three-day trip stopping at Holly and/or Pouakai Huts, if you can organise transport. The ends of each track are 70km apart, and local shuttle operators are hesitant to commit to a two-hour round trip unless there is demand. That’s a chicken and egg one, for sure.

However, according to DOC’s Tinaka Mearns, the development is more about catering to increasing numbers of people wanting shorter walks and more varied experiences, than about building a multi-day tramp.

“The government’s investment was based on a feasibility study that tested visitor needs and preferences against current visitor facilities. The study revealed a clear preference for shorter walks, so the investment was targeted at developing different experiences across Taranaki Maunga.

“The Taranaki Crossing has multiple road access points. These provide many shorter visitor experiences and a greater range of opportunities than completing the full crossing. Over time we expect commercial experiences will be developed in response to that. Short walks around these road ends, particularly to Wilkies Pools and beyond, are already busy during summer,” she adds.

Rob Needs, who runs a shuttle service for the Pouakai Crossing, agrees. “That’s why I started the shuttles. People are happy to walk 20km in a day but they don’t want to stay overnight in a hut. Day trips are where the biggest market is now.”

The PGF Taranaki Crossing Project doesn’t stop at short walks, however. Key visitor facilities are being upgraded, with tangata whenua playing a major role as iwi kaitiakitanga (guardianship) over Taranaki Maunga is restored.

The North Taranaki Visitor Centre is being re-developed with the central involvement of Taranaki iwi Te Kotahitanga o Te Atiawa. Meanwhile Te Korowai o Ngāruahine Trust is re-building Te Rere o Kapuni (Dawson Falls) Lodge, with cultural and ecotourism opportunities as well as accommodation and restaurant services.

Establishment general manager Ngawai Hernandez-Walden (Ngāruahine) says the trust acquired Dawson Falls Lodge in 2016. The area has high cultural, spiritual and historical significance to the iwi due to its location on Taranaki Maunga.

“Te Rere o Kapuni will offer quality accommodation: 18 rooms with contemporary design, art and ambience reflecting Ngāruahinetanga. With a restaurant and separate wānanga room, Te Rere o Kapuni will cater to overnight guests and day visitors. A mouri tau (wellness) room will also be available for rongoā Māori (healing), mirimiri (massage) and whakangā (meditation),” said Hernandez-Walden. It is expected to open mid-2024.

“We also see significant demand for cultural and eco-tourism ventures,” she adds. “Guided walks and other activities to experience Taranaki Maunga are under development by Ngāruahine. These ventures will provide business opportunities and employment training for Ngāruahine uri (descendants).

“These opportunities for true kaitiakitanga over the maunga highlight how much Te Rere o Kapuni is a reaffirmation of Ngāruahinerangi’s connection to our tupuna maunga.”

On the Stratford Plateau, Ngāti Ruanui has managed the Mountain House for more than a decade, and has completed a major restoration of the hotel and restaurant. The iwi has also stated plans to highlight local walking tracks. This will undoubtedly include the final Taranaki Crossing Project development, a spectacular 100m-long suspension bridge across the Manganui Gorge near Manganui ski field. The bridge is scheduled for completion by the end of April. And if you’re not of the new ‘short walk’ breed, fear not, this maunga can still throw out a multi-day challenge.

Try exploring tracks around the western side.