The popular Queen Charlotte Track is at its most beautiful, benign and empty in the shoulder season.
It was just on dusk in Resolution Bay, and a swell was up on the sea. I stood on the jetty and peered down into the water, my headlamp making mottled circles bloom under the surface. A couple of nights before, in Mistletoe Bay, phosphorescence had threaded blue-white through the dark water, and we couldn’t […]
Naomi Arnold is a Nelson tramper, journalist, and author. She particularly enjoys writing about nature, travel, science and adventure. Some of her favourite assignments have been reporting on dotterels from Rakiura, stoats from Preservation Inlet, ice science from Antarctica, and tramping Te Araroa while writing her 2025 trail memoir, Northbound.
