Some descriptions of Southland’s Longwood Forest read more like letters from the Battle of the Somme than recollections of a tramping trip.
For example, in journalist Naomi Arnold’s recent book on the trail, Northbound: Four seasons of solitude on Te Araroa, she writes:
“I am stuck in here, this close, dense, green hell, and there is no way out but through this bullshit for hours, and I’ve put myself here … I know I am in danger of getting injured, but I am too angry to stop.”
When New Zealand Geographic republished sections of this chapter, it was under the headline ‘Two days in the forest of nightmares’.
Locals seem to know this reaction to the Longwoods well. Greg Wilson owns a backpackers, The Cwtch, in Tūātapere and frequently picks up Te Araroa (TA) walkers from either end of the section.
“I see tears on a regular basis,” Wilson says. “Some are not in good shape at all, physically or mentally, when they come out.”
The forest blankets Longwood Range, which rises to 805m just north of Colac Bay near the end or the start of Te Araroa, depending on which way you walk it.
For those heading south, after months of tramping through the country’s varied terrain, it’s the last major mud-caked challenge of the trail. For those heading north it can be the section that makes them want to give up and go home.
The reason? Mud. Knee, thigh, even waist-deep mud that engulfs sections of the trail.
Lying just east of Fiordland, Longwood Range gets regular rain, which soaks into sections of deep peat, particularly along the tops, creating water-logged bogs.

