Nicole Lara had been in New Zealand for two days before she headed out on her first solo overnight tramp.

She’d arrived in Wellington from the United States inspired by Gillian Orrell’s book New Boots in New Zealand. This is a day-by-day account of all the country’s Great Walks. For Nicole, her choice was the South Island and the Abel Tasman Coast Track.

“It was the first time I’d tramped solo overnight,” she says. “In fact, I hadn’t even done any solo day walks and the prospect was a bit daunting. I chose a Great Walk because I knew it was going to be safer and there would be more people. 

“I struggle with an anxiety disorder, so the idea of going out on my own was intimidating. I ended up booking it and then kind of forced myself to do it.”

Nicole chose the Abel Tasman because of hut and campsite availability and was pleased she did. “It was beautiful scenery, I got to meet lots of people and everyone was so friendly.”

However, she completely over packed ‘for her fears’. 

“It was a good learning experience for the next time though,” she says. “I carried way too much food that I didn’t eat, and too much other gear. My pack was also quite old. I’d only used it once, so it wasn’t the right pack for my body and I was in a lot of pain.”

The first day she walked further than she’d ever walked before: 23.9km from Mārahau to Bark Bay Hut. 

“I destroyed my feet,” she says. “I’d decided to wear waterproof boots, which weren’t needed, and I ended up with blisters and swollen feet. That wasn’t the best decision.”

The second day she stayed at a beachside campsite. “It was a bit nerve-wracking because to save on weight I’d brought a bivvy bag instead of a tent, which in my head seemed like a really good idea. When I got to the campsite there was only one other couple there, so it was a little scary to be out in the middle of the night pretty much by myself. I was convinced I was going to suffocate in the bivvy, so I didn’t want to put it over my head.”

Nicole didn’t suffocate; instead, she found the tramp a freeing, empowering and educational experience. 

“I just had myself to depend on,” she says. “I’m really bad with directions and normally get lost easily. When I came to do the tidal crossing, it was early in the morning and very dark, and I couldn’t see where to go. I had a panic attack, but once the sun came up I was able to figure it out. I learned to trust myself.”

Finishing the Abel Tasman gave Nicole a huge sense of achievement. 

“I know it’s not a super hard Great Walk compared to some of the others in terms of elevation gain, but the fact I could go out and finish it, even when I was struggling to mentally push myself through, was very empowering. It gave me confidence to know I could go out on my own and survive, and I now know I’m capable of doing things I might once have thought I couldn’t.”