Natalie Looyer recently completed a PhD on the history of rock climbing in Aotearoa, from the 1960s to the Paris Olympics.

What drew you to this project?

There is so much literature about mountaineering and tramping in Aotearoa but not much about rock climbing. It’s like mountaineering’s scrappy little sibling. As a rock climber, I saw potential for a project that looked at the sport’s growth and evolution over time. What’s special is that this is a young history. Those who were there at the start are mostly still alive. The memories and reflections are still with us, so it felt like a perfect time to capture that through oral history. 

What kick-started rock climbing in Aotearoa?

Rock climbing emerged as an organised activity in the late 1960s, coinciding with what has been described as the ‘new generation of mountaineers’: young guys who were attempting more technical face climbs, such as the first ascent of the Caroline Face of Aoraki in 1970. The same people started to spend time training on rock crags in order to take their skills back into the mountains. During this period of high-octane mountaineering there was a rise in accidents and deaths. My research found some mountaineers were drawn to rock climbing as a safer form of climbing, and came to realise that our crags offer technical, fun challenges in their own right.  

Tell us about Women Climbing Inc.

Throughout the 70s and early 80s, rock climbing was male dominated. The organisation Women Climbing started in 1985 at the end of the women’s liberation movement. It was a way for women in Aotearoa to come together, climb and take on their own leadership roles. They organised day trips and expeditions as well as things like childcare, and had monthly meetings and their own newsletter. For about 20 years, it really thrived. Their biggest event, Summits for Suffrage in February 1993, encouraged anyone to summit any peak or high point around Aotearoa or overseas. About 4000 people took part. 

New Zealand is known for its chossy rock – rock that isn’t very solid. How has this influenced our rock climbing scene? 

I think choss made those places with great rock stronger as climbing destinations. We have the Darrans – incredible rock, although hard to access and a volatile weather environment. Places like Whanganui Bay are treasured by climbers who’ve spent a lot of time there, but it has a contested history that is ongoing with local hapū Ngāti Te Maunga, and for good reason. When Paynes Ford in Golden Bay was discovered, sport climbing took off; and Mt Eden Quarry in Auckland was fantastic – a technical crag right in the city centre.

Access issues have cropped up in places such as Whanganui Bay and Mt Eden Quarry. How important are organisations like Aotearoa Climbing Access Trust to the future of climbing?

The discussion around access to crags has a few dimensions. The first is all about relationship building with landowners, iwi and hapū. As climbers we need to recognise that our reason to use the land isn’t of paramount importance, even though there may be some amazing climbing opportunities; those places have other significant meanings. Another dimension is non-climbers’ perception of risk – and safety and liability. That’s the question that’s being considered at Mt Eden Quarry. 

Is there a book in the mix?

I’ve wanted to turn this research into a book all along, to make it accessible for both a climbing audience and those interested in a dynamic slice of New Zealand history. I’m excited to see where I can take this next.