If I’m honest, not every day on the Great Walks is ‘great’, and some days aren’t worth the price tag. But others are so awe-inspiring that should they be ruined by bad weather, it’s worth being a warrior and walking the entire track again.
1. Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut, Milford Track
It’s hard to sit still in Mintaro Hut. Set beneath the formidably sheer Mt Balloon, it’s the last stop before Omanui/Mckinnon Pass – arguably the most hallowed ground of the Great Walks.
Trampers sleep restlessly in the shadow of the mountain, knowing Fiordland’s unpredictable weather could make or break the views on the next day’s walk. And what a walk it is.
The climb begins immediately with gentle switchbacks ascending from the treeline. In summer, it is dotted with mountain daisies and the snow-white Mt Cook lily. If it has rained recently (chances are it has), waterfalls paint multiple silver arteries across the mountains. Topping out at Omanui/McKinnon Pass, it’s hard not to feel humbled by the significance of crossing what was once the only known overland route to Milford Sound. Views of Clinton Canyon extend to the south, while the canine tooth of Mt Balloon stands to the east. The best views, however, are ahead: Roaring Burn, 500m below, and the broad face of Mt Pillans.
I would argue there is no better viewpoint on any Great Walk – yet the day is far from over. There are consistently stunning views during the descent to Dumpling Hut and an unforgettable side trip to 580m Sutherland Falls.
2. Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut, Routeburn Hut
The Routeburn Track packs a lot into these 11km. From the start at the bushline at Routeburn Falls Hut, the track is immediately stunning, climbing over the faultline running beneath the falls before winding through an open valley alongside Route Burn to Lake Harris, which glitters blue or slate-grey depending on the weather. Harris Saddle reveals views of the imposing Darran Mountains, and though I’ve yet to make it, the side trip to 1515m Conical Hill looks superb.
From the saddle shelter – often populated by kea – the track veers south to sidle the flanks of the Ailsa Mountains with views all the way. Then, when you think the day couldn’t get any more impressive, the track edges around a peak to reveal Lake Mackenzie, dwarfed in its mountain bowl by iconic Emily Peak.
On this side of the mountain range it rains upwards of a metre more a year than at Routeburn Falls, and the moss decorating the descent through the forest is the day’s final gift. Once at the hut, a side trip to the campsite for a swim in the lake is a must do.
3. Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track
The Kepler Track is interesting. Whether walked in three days or four, only one day provides views to write home about, the rest being spent under canopy. The forests, full of moss and birdlife, are sensational, but not quite at the majestic level expected under the Great Walks banner.
So does the day on the tops make up for it? Absolutely. The 14.6km journey begins at Luxmore Hut, which is often swamped by curious kea right on breakfast time. Sidling past Mt Luxmore (which can be climbed as a short side trip), the route trades farmland views of Te Anau for the more remote South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, with the Murchison Mountains on the opposite shore. Then there’s the best ridge walk of any Great Walk, a stunning – if awfully exposed – zig-zag across the high tussock tops. From the bushline there’s a seemingly never-ending descent, but trampers eventually connect with the valley floor, home to Iris Burn Falls, calling tokoeka and whio.
4. Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai River Mouth, Heaphy Track
I can’t imagine walking northbound on the Heaphy Track. To me, it’s all about the anticipation of the ocean: the journey from mountains to sea. The final day for southbound walkers departs the driftwood graveyard of Heaphy Hut for perhaps the most spectacular coastal walk in the country. Trampers can opt for track or sand as they float from beach to beach, revelling in the windswept seafoam and tumbling pebbles in the tide. Clashing with the southern coast aesthetic are countless nīkau palms along the coastline, their roots buried in coarse sand. These nīkau are the most southern-growing palm species on earth and appear both alien and at home as they stand tall above the track. Lucky walkers may spot powelliphanta snails or their giant shells, as well as basking seals. Rain or shine, this section is sure to exhilarate.
The best of the rest (ordered north to south)
1. Mangatepopo Hut to Oturere Hut, Tongariro Northern Circuit
Even though it’s likely to be the most crowded section, it’s hard to argue with the Emerald Lakes on a good day.
2. Onepoto to Waiopaoa Hut, Lake Waikaremoana Track
The Panekire Bluffs offer the best views on Ngāi Tūhoe’s track, and it’s worth walking slightly further to lakeside Waiopaoa Hut.
3. John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga, Whanganui River Journey
This is the journey’s middle day; it’s devoid of civilisation and offers mossy canyons and a side trip to the historic Bridge to Nowhere.
4. Anchorage to Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track
Throw in a loop to Te Pukatea Bay (one of the park’s best) and a side trip to Cleopatra’s Pool, and day two comes up gold.
5. Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut, Paparoa Track
With tops travel, escarpments and views extending south to Kā Tiritiri-o-te-Moana,the middle section of Aotearoa’s newest Great Walk is also its best.
6. Lee Bay Road end to Port William Hut, Rakiura Track
The emerald waters appear tropical on Rakiura Track’s first day, and kiwi can be spotted on the lawn at Port William Hut.
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