The Karangarua–Douglas Circuit is an exposed and exhilarating route for experienced trampers.

As a map, BX15 is as fine a piece of wall art as could be wished for. The Sierra Range blends into the névé-clad Kā Tiritiri o te Moana – the Main Divide of the Southern Alps – in an arabesque curve and culminates north of Aoraki Mt Cook with impressive swathes of glaciers, the fingers of which splay down into the rocky ridges and bush of the west. Only one permanent settlement occupies this sheet – Fox Glacier township – and there are few roads and fence lines on the alluvial plain alongside the Cook and Fox rivers. It’s the map that captures the zenith of the land of mountains.

For several years an earlier edition of this map adorned my wall at work. I’d often trace its lines with my eyes, dreaming of routes and trips. I’ve now walked many of the valleys on this map and stood on a few of the summits, but one of my most memorable trips was a journey up the Karangarua and Douglas valleys to Harpers Rock Biv and The Gladiator, returning via Christmas Flat and the Karangarua. There are very few poled routes on the tops of the West Coast ranges, but although the waratahs are few and far between, the beautiful tops route linking Conical Hill with Horace Walker Hut makes a remarkable swathe of Southern Alps heartland more accessible. 

Horace Walker Hut is a memorable destination, but those skilled enough to navigate the unmarked transalpine terrain to Harpers Rock Biv will experience some of the distinctive alpine architecture that makes this place so special. Angular peaks, glacier-polished schist slabs and rambling icefields abound. Waterfalls tumble from improbably tall cliffs and the summit of Mt Sefton stands above it all. The bivouac was named after A.P. Harper, one of the founders of the NZ Alpine Club and a prolific early West Coast explorer. He found the prominent rock bivouac during his exploration of the surrounding valleys and passes, and would have appreciated its incredible view. Back then, though, the glaciers were hundreds of metres higher and were yet to melt to create the grey waters of Douglas Lake.

A head for heights is required for The Gladiator climb, which tackles the ridge and slabs above Douglas Pass. But from here, the crown of the range along to Mt Howitt offers more amazing views into the upper Landsborough Valley before walkers descend steeply towards charming Christmas Flat Hut. The Upper Karangarua provides easier bush and river bed tramping out to the road, with a final night at Cassel Flat Hut on the way. 

Transalpine skills are required on the steep untracked terrain. Ice axe and crampons may also be required.