A rock bivouac provides a unique night in the wilderness

If you had to pick a map that defines the Otago section of the Southern Alps, CA11 would be it. The map covers the territory from Treble Cone and the Harris Mountains in the south to towering peaks with enticing names such as ‘Stargazer’ and ‘Skyscraper’ in the north. Dominating the centre of the map is the West Matukituki Valley and Tititea Mt Aspiring. This is some of the most beloved tramping and mountaineering country in New Zealand. Many world-famous routes begin from the floor of the West Matukituki, including those to Cascade Saddle and French Ridge and Liverpool huts. High above is the Bonar Glacier, a white blotch on the map, and above that are the crinkled contour lines of Tititea itself. CA11 is a must-have map for anyone seeking adventure in Mount Aspiring National Park.

Yet, despite the map’s popularity, some hidden gems remain tucked away off the beaten track. The east branch of the Matukituki winds north from Cameron Flat and away from the crowds. High in its headwaters, at Junction Flat and obscured by the edge of the map, a series of lonely waratahs leads over Rabbit Pass to Makarora. But well before there, at Junction Flat, the Kitchener Track turns west. A kilometre or so past its end, nestled beneath Bonar Glacier and the Kitchener Cirque, sits a curious rock bivouac on the edge of Aspiring Flats. It’s marked on the map as ‘Rock of Ages Bivouac’, and was discovered in 1958 by a group attempting to climb the east ridge of Mt Avalanche. The name is a reference to the hymn the climbers sang while sheltering there from a deluge. The enormous rock that forms the shelter sleeps up to 10 and has a dry-stone fireplace. 

To reach the start of the East Matukituki Track requires either crossing the bridge over the Matukituki West Branch or fording the river at Cameron Flat. Then, after 3km of easy walking across farmland, the track enters beech forest, hugging the bank of the river. The track undulates above the river, crossing sidestreams and the occasional slip before reaching the open, grassy expanse of Junction Flat. A short climb later leads to Aspiring Flats, where the full majesty of the Kitchener Cirque and Turnbull Thomson Falls can be admired. The Rock of Ages bivvy is tucked into the forest on the far side of the flats on the true right of the Kitchener River. Beware of crossing the open silty flats as large patches of quicksand hide in plain sight. A cairn marks the start of the track to the bivvy.