It takes effort to get to an island, and leaving may not be straightforward either. So it can be reassuring to know there’s shelter – a place where you can be quiet and away from the elements. A hot cuppa on the deck. Dry feet. A cradle for the sense of your own smallness – which seeing the horizon can evoke. You might even get the hut – or the island – all to yourself.
Hole up at a remote hideaway on Rakiura’s northwest coast. By Sam Harrison
The northwest coast of Rakiura can be a stroll back in time. For walkers it’s a combination of wild coastline, dense podocarp forest and dunelands.
Big Hellfire Hut (bookings not required) perches 200m above the coastline, along the 125km Northwest Circuit Track. It’s fitted with 12 bunks and a woodburner. Through the ranch slider you can look out on Rakiura’s vast untamed interior.
If the views from the hut aren’t enough, climb to the sandy pass, just two minutes away, from where you can see Whenua Hou, an island sanctuary for kākāpō. To the east the granite massif of Benson Peak watches over the wetlands of Ruggedy Flat. The pass itself is interesting too, being host to a rare climbing dune, formed by the relentless wind pushing sand over the low range.
Big Hellfire Hut is seven hours’ walk from either Mason Bay Hut or East Ruggedy Hut. The track from East Ruggedy passes Waituna Bay, where pāua can be gathered from rock pools at low tide.
Recreation Reserve Relax in a modern hut on historic Quail Island. By Leigh Hopkinson
Ōtamahua Hut, a bookable 12-bunker, is only 600m from the Lyttelton ferry jetty, so you can take luxuries on a whim. It’s a
serviced hut, roomy inside and with a big deck overlooking Whakaraupō Lyttelton Harbour. It’s popular in summer, and during school holidays when the ferry ride is discounted, but is little used in winter. There’s a log burner and ample firewood.
A 4.5km easy walking track loops around the island taking in its plentiful history. The island was a quarantine station for new immigrants in 1875, and later for horses and dogs bound for Antarctica. For a brief time it was also a leprosy colony. The western point was a ship graveyard early last century with ship skeletons still visible at low tide.
Ōtamahua means ‘the place where children collect seabird eggs’ and was an important mahinga kai for Māori in search of eggs, shellfish and flax.
It’s possible to boat across from Te Wharau Charteris Bay and camp at picturesque Whakamaru Beach, near the restored quarantine barracks. Otherwise see Black Cat Cruises for the ferry timetable.
Spend a night nestled in native bush on Aotea Great Barrier Island. By Brian Dobbie
Kaiaraara Hut is a 28-bunk serviced hut with a woodburner and gas cookers. It is part of the three-day Aotea Track, but can be a stand-alone all-weather destination.
Booking is required, but in winter you’ll likely have the hut to yourself.
The shortest route there is just over 2km from the end of Kaiaraara Bay Road near Port Fitzroy. Check the DOC website for alerts though as this track, and the lower half of the Kaiaraara Track towards Hirakimata Mt Hobson, have been closed due to slips since March 2023.
A longer but straightforward option, with no major climbs, is via Forest Road from Whangaparapara. There are views of most of the island from the side track to Mau-ngapiko Lookout, and a short diversion on the Kauri Tree Route goes to the most impressive stand of kauri trees on the island.
Getting to this hut on Lake Wakatipu is all part of the thrill. By Jub Bryant
This 10-bunk hut on Wāwāhi Waka Pigeon Island is a good overnight adventure. The 10-bunk hut is owned by Queenstown Lakes District Council and can be booked online for free. Camping next to the hut is possible, and, if there’s a no-show, the hut is unlocked and it’s all yours.
Access is from Lake Face Creek on the Glenorchy–Queenstown Road and a boat is required to cross the 2km stretch of water to the landing on the island’s southern end.
The 170ha island has a track – just over 1km – to the summit. Sunset is a good time to climb up (about 20min) and enjoy the views. There’s also an easy 5km loop around the island.
The hut has utensils and solar-powered lighting, but you’ll need to take your own water (or boil lake water).
Stay on an unusual island in the middle of the mighty Hollyford River. By Brian Dobbie
McKerrow Island is unusual: it’s in the middle of a big river, a branch of which has to be crossed to reach it. It’s often not too deep and can be easy enough to cross – unless it’s not.
The island offers superb views down Whakatipu Waitai Lake McKerrow to the Darran Mountains. You’ll be far from the madding crowd and in a character-filled old-style hut.
From Lake Alabaster Hut on the Hollyford Track, follow the Demon Trail for three to four hours to reach the hut turnoff. Take the side track about 40m to the Hollyford
River then cross to the true left. The marked track passes through a section of bush to the lake’s edge. The hut is located near the river mouth.
In February 2020, during massive rainfall, a family of five survived a terrifying ordeal in this hut for three days, stranded on the top bunks as water from the Hollyford flowed chest-deep through the hut. They eventually smashed a window and climbed onto the water tank from where they were helicoptered to safety.
Relax on the deck and catch the late afternoon sun after boating or kayaking. By Justine Sanderson
Motukawanui Hut is on Motukawanui Island, the largest of the Cavalli Islands off the eastern coast of Northland. It’s 4km away and can only be accessed by sea from Matauri Bay.
The hut is nestled at the southern end of sandy Waiiti Bay, a swimming or snorkelling spot with easy boat access and anchorage. The serviced hut sleeps 12 and has water and a long-drop toilet. The covered deck overlooks Waiiti Bay and catches the late afternoon sun. Booking is required as the hut is popular during weekends and holidays.
Motukawanui Island is a DOC scenic reserve and home to seals, kiwi and other native species. Camping and dogs are not permitted. A 3.5km undulating ridge track leads to a secluded beach at the island’s northern end, and a short side track ascends to the highest point of the island from where there are views of the surrounding islets. Another short path from the hut leads to pebbly Horseshoe or Papatara Bay, where there’s an old farmer’s hut.
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