Illustrator Sarah May Little talks to three women who have soloed the Te Araroa Trail to see what inspired them to walk alone in the hope it may inspire others
Last summer, I tramped the South Island leg of the Te Araroa Trail. Friends and family weren’t sure what to think about my plans to hike solo. My hiker friends swooned at the idea; others were alarmed. One friend anxiously recounted terrifying stories of women in the wilderness being predated on, while urging me to reconsider.
But I put stock in my abilities as an experienced outdoorswoman and decided ‘to hell with it!’
Once on the trail, I soon felt safer in the bush than I had ever done in the city. It bugged me that other women were missing out on the unique experience of solo hiking because they’re told it’s too dangerous. As it turned out, I met so many fantastic people I was seldom by myself. And those days and nights I did spend alone were incredible, liberating and peaceful.
I interviewed three women I met on the TA. Maybe their stories will inspire more women to hike solo.
Name: Shelley Butt
Age: 37
Nationality: New Zealand/Japanese
Why did you tramp Te Araroa?
I had wanted to walk a long trail ever since reading Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods when I was 15. I bought a guidebook to the TA three years before I actually made the decision to walk it. The book seemed to be calling out from my bookshelf and in the end, it was screaming at me – I had no choice but to do it.
Was this your first long distance tramp?
Yes. I had my sights set on the Appalachian Trail until I realised there was one here in New Zealand.
How did you find tramping solo?
The feeling of absolute freedom, not having to negotiate with anyone, licking wounds and not having to put on a brave face made it the freest I had ever felt. It was a little scary at times, but I knew that as long as I stayed on track, someone would find me. I also had a personal locator beacon (PLB) and left detailed intentions for each section with my mum. You meet people going the same direction and I ended up having quite a few walking partners without planning it.
What was the craziest thing that happened on the trail?
Getting caught topless by a full tourist bus driving down 90 Mile Beach, getting swept 30m down a swollen stream during a flash flood in the Nelson Lakes, rationing my last crackers in the Tararuas, the mind-blowing trail magic I received from strangers, the deep friendships I made in minutes (or just through hut entries!), and meeting a man I didn’t want to – and still haven’t – let go of.
What was your favourite section?
The Richmond Ranges, the Paekakariki Escarpment, the Queen Charlotte Track which I got to share with my mum and some friends from home, the Nelson Lakes, the Deception/Minga, the Northland coastal section, the Stag Saddle ridge walk – I can’t choose!
Did you learn anything from your experience?
I’ve learnt that I am my own best cheerleader. I’ve learnt to say ‘Yes!’ to offers of help where previously I would have shied away from being a bother to others. I’ve learnt to say ‘No!’ to things that don’t work rather than trying to please others. I’ve learnt I want to dedicate myself to cleaning up the oceans of plastics and other debris. Finding it strewn on our remote beaches broke my heart.
What advice would you give to other female solo trampers?
There is so much life to live and taking this time out for yourself is so worth it. I felt safer in the bush than I do in the city alone. Tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back in communication range. Take a PLB, and have fun. It will be one of the most memorable things you do in your life.
