A family-friendly trip to a grand sunset viewing location on Mt Ruapehu.

BJ34 is the eighth most popular map in the country, and the only one to include a volcano, a hot lake surrounded by glaciers, a wilderness area, three ski fields, pristine swimming holes, several lahar paths, beech forest, mad scoria fields, secret sly grogging routes, the last spike of the North Island main trunk railway, a derelict prison, two alpine club huts, 50+ ski club lodges, a gondola, an army training area (with live firing!) and a 1920s haunted chateau. But, you know, I’m biased – it’s my backyard. 

That map list makes it hard to decide which trip is the best. For trampers, I reckon it’s Rangipo Hut on the eastern flanks of Ruapehu which, at 1560m, is the highest DOC hut in Tongariro National Park. 

It’s family-friendly and great for beginners, with just a two-hour walk from the nearest access point, Tukino Mountain Road. There’s usually plenty of firewood, and Rangipo Hut offers one of the best sunrise positions on the mountain. 

Sunset isn’t bad either, as you can watch the sky turn pink and listen to the booming sounds from the army training area directly below the hut, where ‘intermittent live firing’ takes place.

There are several side trips from Rangipo Hut. It’s worth taking the Round the Mountain track south and dipping in and out of the mighty Wahianoa catchment, a steep climb down and out again. Climbers can tackle the eastern ridge leading to Ringatoto Peak (alpine gear and experience is required in winter; an extensive tolerance for choss and a disregard for personal safety is required in summer). Intrepid souls can navigate bluffs and reach the NZAC’s Whangaehu Hut by going north and upwards, or loop back via Tukino Village. There is a gate to access the village by 4WD; this is locked outside of the ski season. 

‘Rangipo’ means ‘place of the dark sky’, and if you visit, you’ll see why when the stars come out on a black night over the fierce desert. Directly below the hut is Te Onetapu, meaning ‘the Sacred Sands’, where Ngāti Rangi’s ancestor Taiteariki died. Formerly known as the Rangipo Desert, this area reverted to its former name after Ngāti Rangi’s 2019 settlement, and now bears the original and much more poetic name, Te Onetapu.