It’s hard not to be waylaid on this short walk when traversing the sheltered bays, bush and farmland of this beautiful park. By Diana Ward

Mahurangi West Regional Park was once farmed by John Sullivan, who immigrated from London and settled in Ōtarawao in 1844. Both he and his son William married local Māori women and for almost a century they and their descendants farmed the land until it was acquired by Auckland Council in 1966, and added to over the years, to form the regional park.

The walk starts from the sheltered and sandy Ōtarawao Bay. To your right, facing seaward, you’ll see markers on the grassy path that leads to Cudlip Point. There’s a hygiene station at the first gate and more throughout the park to help prevent the spread of kauri dieback. There are magnificent views of Ōtarawao and Te Muri Beaches as you wander along the ridge. 

Cudlip Point (1km), reached via a short sidetrack through a patch of coastal forest, is one of three headlands you’ll visit, all of which were once fortified pā sites. Though partially obscured by trees, on clear days there are views of Te Haupa / Saddle Island, Motuora, Aotea / Great Barrier Island and Coromandel Peninsula.

Retrace your steps for about 10min then take the track to your left which slopes down to Te Muri Estuary and Te Muri Beach. Timing is important as you should only cross the estuary within an hour either side of low tide. The beach and hinterland feel remote. Take care not to disturb the dotterels or oystercatchers that may be nesting close to the dunes. The sprawling pōhutukawa on the foreshore provide shelter and a good picnic spot. 

Walk to the end of the beach and inland at the campground, where there are toilets. Cross the grassed area to reach the ‘cross-country’ section. Head straight up the hill or around it to your right for a gentler ascent – either way you’ll see the marker that guides you to the high point above (80m). It’s worth walking a little further towards the point as there are some very large pōhutukawa and pūriri only minutes away. 

Walk downhill to the gate and stile in the corner of the paddock. Cross the flat path towards the urupā at the far end. More than 100 Māori and European settlers were buried here from the 1860s. Climb the stile past the urupā and cross the estuary, then up the farm road to the small car park. Take the grassy slope to Ōtarawao.

Continue along the road or foreshore, into the campground, and follow the path to your left to begin the climb through regenerating bush to Tungutu Point. Stop for views up Mahurangi Harbour, across to Mahurangi East and for glimpses of Kawau Island in the distance. Glance along the ridge to see what remains of terraces and pits, evidence of early Māori occupation. 

The fence line is marked as the way down to Otuawaea but it’s easier to follow the grassy path to the left of the tree. At the bottom, take the steps to the beach. 

Cut across the campground to the steep 4WD road through lush coastal forest to Ngarewa Drive. This road section offers spectacular views on either side. Just past the lay-by at Tungutu Point, take the track on your left back down to Ōtarawao.