Tramping the Tākitimu Track is a fantastic way to spend three or four challenging days in the Southland wilderness. Be prepared to navigate muddy beech forest, valleys filled with chest-high tussock, rivers and steep saddles. The reward for tackling this difficult track is that there will be long stretches – if not the whole track – without another soul, if you time it right. The track forms part of Te Araroa and is heavily used between November and May, so be prepared to camp out if you go during these months. 

A highlight of the journey is the sweeping vista from the top of Heartbreak Spur after a solid ascent that is bound to get the heart racing. While catching my breath at the summit, I took the opportunity to frame my friend against the backdrop of the range to show the scale of these mighty mountains.

While on the spur, take time to admire the alpine flora – a stunning mix of tussock, cushion plants, celmisia and hardy shrubs – as this is the only alpine environment on the track. 

Tramping northbound, it’s a big first day getting through Mt Linton Station, with tantalising views of the Tākitimu Mountains. Telford Campsite is the destination, located in a beautiful valley. On Telford River’s true right at the bush edge is four-bunk Dougies Hut, a good alternative in bad weather. 

After dropping off the spur you soon reach four-bunk Lower Wairaki Hut, and 6–8 hours later Aparima Huts. Arrive early enough to have a swim in the deep pool in Aparima River beneath the swingbridge.

If the return to civilisation can be delayed further, spend a final night at the road-end Lower Princhester Hut and soak your tired feet in the cool stream nearby.

The final few kilometres come with the anticipation of a post-adventure treat at the Sprig and Thistle coffee van at the end of the trail on SH94