Pt1104 makes a perfect perch from which to watch the sunset. Photo: Ben Ng-Wai Shing

Side-step to the highlights

Moonlight Tops Hut via Croesus Track, Paparoa National Park

Croesus Track is a less-travelled side entry to arguably the best parts of the Paparoa Track.

Starting from Barrytown, you are plunged into iconic West Coast nīkau. As you gain altitude steadily this transitions to a mossy goblin forest before becoming a carpet of golden tussock above the bushline. Edging past Mt Ryall you are rewarded with views of snow-capped Aoraki Mt Cook to the south. Snow poles guide you to the junction with Paparoa Track, and the ridgeline travel from here to Moonlight Tops Hut is well groomed and allows you to enjoy the expansive views.

Moonlight Tops is a 20-bunk hut with large double-glazed windows framing the panoramic view of the northern Paparoa Range and Pike Stream escarpment. Built in 2019, it has two bunk rooms, solar-powered lighting and USB charging ports, gas stoves and a woodburner. The main deck is a great spot to stretch tired legs and trade tramping tales. Just south of the hut a 10-minute wander to Pt1104 provides the perfect perch to enjoy the sunset with its signature West Coast hazy sea spray glow.

You can retrace your steps back to Barrytown on day two, or if time and bookings permit, a second night at Moonlight Tops gives you the luxury of donning a daypack and tracing the escarpment to the north. An emergency shelter at 9.5km is a convenient turn-around point (19km return on undulating well-maintained track).

About the author

Ben Ng-Wai Shing

Ben works as a GP and heads for the hills to fill his cup. He is handy with a camera and enjoys capturing and sharing photos of New Zealand’s backcountry with friends and family. In addition to stills, two short films of his have been selected as finalists in the MD Outdoors Adventure Film Festival. Ben’s creative streak has led him to explore a range of different mediums including lost-wax jewellery, greenwood spoon carving, and entries to the World of Wearable Art competition – all of which he has done while out tramping.