From riverside tracks bursting with birdlife to deep, dark caves and camping on the tops, there’s more to this park than meets the eye.
Along the scenic coastal highway linking Greymouth and Westport lies some of the most spectacular ocean, river, forest and mountain scenery to be found anywhere in New Zealand. This is the Paparoa Range and national park, extending from the Buller River, just south of Westport to the Grey River, which flows to the sea at Greymouth. The geography here isolates the ranges from the Southern Alps and provides a unique climate that is more mild than would normally be expected at this latitude. The warm Westland Current, originating in the Coral Sea, flows close to the coast and provides an almost frost-free winter and a subtropical environment. This, together with intense rainfall and high sunshine hours, nurtures the nikau palms and tree ferns that grow in profusion throughout the seaward portion of the range. Inland, sheltered basins hold dense forests of podocarp species – rimu, totara, miro, rata and kahikatea. The temperate climate also encourages native birds, large numbers of which are found throughout the region. The land undulates in sheltered inland valleys bound by coastal limestone cliffs and canyons where the rivers have cut through the soft rock and sculpted the most remarkable forms in the stone. These landforms provide the main attraction for trampers, who may spend days surveying, walking, photographing and navigating these absorbing features. Midway along the coastal highway lies the gateway to the national park: the famous Pancake Rocks at the tiny settlement of Punakaiki. This is the focal point for the area, yet north and south, and especially inland, are many other fascinating opportunities for exploration and historical encounters. Camp on the tops and view sunset over the Tasman Sea Reaching the tops in Paparoa National Park is not easy, as most routes are rough, untracked and require navigation skills. However, there are two marked tracks to the tops, both of which are not actually in the park, but still in the Paparoa Range: the Croesus Track in the south and the Buckland Peaks Track in the north. Both require a solid day’s walk. From the ridge crests, a traverse could be made to a suitable campsite from which to imbibe the view, which is beyond breathtaking. Not only is the Tasman Sea so close at hand, but depending on your site, much of the Southern Alps can be viewed curving away to north and south. It’s unforgettable, especially at sunset. Water can be scarce on the tops, so take plenty with you. Go caving [caption id="attachment_21599" align="aligncenter" width="1280"]

