Reading Hazel Phillip’s story on Te Tatau Pounamu wilderness area (Tongariro’s Bermuda Triangle), it’s pleasing to see that even in this, one of the busiest national parks in the country, remote experiences are available. 

And that is one reason why Tongariro is perhaps my favourite national park. Even without the wilderness area, it’s one of the easiest places in which to go off track and find your own adventure. Because the park is at such high altitude and much of the terrain, especially on the Northern Circuit route, is above the bushline, you’ve got ample sightlines. With Ngāuruhoe and Ruapehu ever present, it’s difficult to become truly lost.

I’ve had a few remarkable journeys in the park where I’ve eschewed tracks. The best was trekking down Ruapehu’s northern Waihohonu Ridge after a night camped on the Summit Plateau. The soft volcanic soil, and with Ngāuruhoe front and centre the entire way, made it a sensational walk. 

More recently I decided to take a shortcut on the Tongariro Northern Circuit. After reaching the Upper Tama Lakes Track junction, I went straight ahead and followed Taranaki Stream rather than taking the long and winding tracks back to the Mangatepopo Road end. 

The rugged terrain required plenty of down-climbing of waterfalls and bashing through waist-high scrub. It took me about two hours to travel 2.5km to join the Mangatepopo Track, 

but it was fun and I got to see a part of the park, including gorgeous swimming holes, that few others would have laid eyes on. 

I hope Hazel’s story kindles in you a desire to seek out more remote experiences. There’s adventure there if you take time and look. The Tongariro National Park map that comes with this magazine might be a good place to start. 

Speaking of the maps, please do let me know what you think. Mainly, should we do more of them? The reason we did these two in the first place is because I thought it would be nice to dream about future trips in these parks and reminisce about past ones. I hope they serve that purpose for you.