Topographical maps cleverly translate the three-dimensional aspect into one dimension, thus providing an easily interpreted aid for route planning, navigation, location fixing and, of course, map gazing. I have lingered long – and longingly – studying the contours of the land, its lakes, streams, peaks and valleys while imagining travel through this country and searching for links between interesting features. 

No two maps are the same, but some are more extraordinarily different, and CB09 is one such map. Divided by the Eglinton, Greenstone and Hollyford valleys, this map reveals some of New Zealand’s finest geography: the sharply incised U-shaped valleys and granitic pyramids of the Darran Mountains on one side, and on the other, the more relaxed angles of the Humboldt Range. For the most part, igneous basement rocks lie to one side of the Hollyford and metamorphics and sedimentaries to the other.

The top left corner contains the heart of Fiordland’s Darran Mountains, renowned for its complex terrain, climbing potential and heavy rainfall. I might not be painting a tempting picture here for the tramper, but this range does offer some amazing tramping and day walks, with the Gertrude Valley perhaps being the best day tramp in Aotearoa. 

Without a good head for exposure and some technical skills, it’s true that other overnight options are limited, but there is one trip that de-codifies the bluffs, moraines and rock slabs of the Darrans in a way that confident trampers would enjoy: the spectacular crossing from the Lower to Upper Hollyford.

After climbing through the bush of Moraine Creek, this route comes into open country near Tent Flat. From here an unmarked route (described in Moir’s Guide South) makes its way towards the Lake Adelaide outlet to provide one of the best views in the whole of the Southern Alps: the steep peaks of Adelaide, Sabre, Marian and Barrier, lording it over the lake in a seemingly impenetrable cirque. Once at the southern end of the lake, the large boulder of Gills Bivvy provides a unique and scenic home for the night. A second bivouac (Phils) approximately 1km to the southeast is worth exploring, along with the prominent spur that climbs towards The Sentinel. Pack an extra day’s food for this. 

The route then ascends Giffords Crack, a name that has sparked fear in trampers. No crack climbing is required, just a firm grip and sure-footedness, as rock slabs and tussock are climbed to the saddle. There are plenty of hand- and footholds and ledges to rest on. Either a sidle or a route over Barrier Knob is then followed to Gertrude Saddle and down to the evocative Black Lake, before a final descent towards the Hollyford as you crane your neck to take in the views of Mt Talbot and Crosscut.