This Great Walk is not actually a ‘walk’, but a 145km river journey. It may not immediately appeal, especially for those raised with feet firmly set upon dry land, but it’s an adventure that should be on every Kiwi’s bucket list.

Over the course of five days (three if you opt for the shorter and more popular 88km alternative from Whakahoro), paddlers are treated to the best of what the Whanganui River, the world’s first natural environment to be granted legal personhood, has to offer.

From cavernous river valleys that rise up through pristine native bush to the telltale song of endemic and native birds, the Whanganui River is a truly untouched wilderness, yet it’s easily accessible to the average New Zealander – where else in the world can paddlers negotiate a large river, with over 200 rapids, shoals and whirlpools, with minimal risk?

The middle reaches are a showcase in spectacular scenery and diverse wildlife. Impressive stands of broadleaf and podocarp forest terminate at the top of towering cliffs which plunge into the river’s depths. Beneath the surface, eighteen different species of native fish thrive while above, paddlers keep a keen eye out for glimpses of kereru, pīwakakawaka, tui and miromiro.

Whilst extended periods of rain can bring high river days with faster flowing water, more frenzied paddling and increased debris, experienced canoe hire companies can pass on many years’ experience of the river and its hazards before departure.

I paddled the river over the busy New Year period when increased canoe numbers meant we were lucky to tag along behind a Māori cultural guide’s canoe: occasionally catching snippets of information about the river’s rich history, and sneaking peeks at the perfect line to take through the largest rapids.

Facilities along the way are excellent. Campsites are spacious, flat, thoughtfully placed by the river and located high above the flood line (although the experience of hauling heavy barrels full of supplies and gear up steep riverbanks each night is one best re-lived in hindsight).

If you can book early enough, I recommend taking advantage of the relative luxury of John Coull Hut, or opt for the cultural experience at Tīeke Kāinga marae. Tīeke campsite is also placed conveniently across the river from the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, a fantastic spot with stunning views, especially enjoyable with a cool beer from the lodge’s bar after a day’s paddling.

The highlight of the final day is the three biggest rapids of the route. Each brings a new injection of adrenalin and achievement, especially if you are one of those lucky enough to remain upright in the turbulent waters of the main rapid or the swirling eddies immediately after.

Through this section, I observed a humble connection developing between me and my fellow canoeists. Most of us had entered the river a few days earlier filled with trepidation. Yet there we were, spurring each other on through each obstacle, whooping in delight as one canoe after another made it safely to Pipiriki without capsizing.

I sense that the Whanganui Journey has more to offer, and you can guarantee I’ll be heading back to the river at the next opportunity.