»Nelson Lakes National Park could be considered a perfect stepping stone for those looking to extend their tramping experience and develop transalpine skills for trips in more exposed terrain further south. 

There is minimal scrub, and relatively open forest allows agreeable   off-track travel. The ranges are peppered with huts, tracks and bridges, all of which can be linked to create some interesting trips. 

I’ve tramped in Nelson Lakes much more than I have climbed and, as it would be for many people, the Travers–Sabine Circuit is a highlight. It’s the first trip to do on a map with many possibilities. This classic tramp takes 4–7 days and includes picturesque valley tramping, well-sited huts and a steep but rewarding crossing of Travers Saddle, close to some of the biggest peaks in the park. While the route traverses some impressive country, it’s well marked and has bridges over most rivers and streams.  

The circuit is best done clockwise from St Arnaud. An easy track alongside Lake Rotoiti (there is a water taxi option) kicks off the trip, taking walkers to Lakehead or Coldwater huts. As the route leads further into the Travers Valley the scenery becomes more impressive, and the beech forest slowly thins as height is gained past John Tait Hut. From here to West Sabine Hut is the best section, with beautiful, moss-draped     southern beech forest, tussock tops and, during summer, alpine flowers, all amid craggy peaks and steep valley walls. 

From West Sabine Hut, an out-and-back detour to Rotomairewhenua Blue Lake and Blue Lake Hut (seven hours return) is worthwhile to see the clearest natural freshwater lake in the world. The route then heads north to Lake Rotoroa and Sabine Hut, where there’s the choice of a water taxi or a final eight-hour walk back to St Arnaud via Speargrass Hut.