A 4WD track heads through bush and climbs steadily along the south-west ridge. There are conveniently located seats along the track and rewarding views to the Kaikoura Peninsula below and Seaward Kaikoura Ranges inland. Mt Fyffe Hut is reached after about two hours. The hut is set in a stunning location to capture impressive sunrises, and there are ample camping spots.

Beyond the hut, the 4WD track steadily climbs to Mt Fyffe (1602m). Poles now mark the way, following the main ridge towards Gable (1585m), then a brief steep descent and ascent to Gables End (1592m), where there are commanding views of the Seaward Kaikoura Range, Mt Manakau and the full-length of the Kaikoura coast. 

The challenging 350m descent from Gables End to Kowhai Saddle is a mix of scree, loose rocks and grasses. There is no available water between Mt Fyffe Hut and 15 minutes on either side of Kowhai Saddle. The 2016 Kaikoura earthquake has left its scar on the landscape here. The route is marked with new poles and spray-painted orange triangles on oversized boulders. 

From the saddle, head down the Hapuku River, with a short steep section before hitting the rocks and boulders of the upper river. Poles and triangles show the route down the true left before crossing to the true right to bypass a small gorge through overgrown scrub and a steep descent, then it’s back to the true left. The bush is reached after an hour and the route becomes a well-worn trail before reaching the final river crossing and Hapuku Hut, which is located in a sunny clearing.

Return to Kowhai Saddle following the same route and then descend into the upper Kowhai River. This section was freshly cut in December 2022 but it is still a challenge for route finding with steep descents (750m from Kowhai Saddle to Kowhai Hut) and scrub having overgrown the track in numerous places. There is a considerable amount of boulder hopping and stream crossing. 

The trail reaches a river junction and crosses to the other side. The hut is about 100m further on and is set in a large open clearing.

Below Kowhai Hut, the clearly marked track crosses Kowhai River to the true left. It’s an easy trail all the way to Spaniard Spur Track (a good escape route if rain is forecast or the river is running high). Beyond, the trail is less well marked with intermittent rock cairns and orange triangles. The river is crossed multiple times and the track follows marked sections along flat grass trails.

Eventually, a 4WD track is picked up and the trail follows this back to the car park.