Slogs and bogs are par for the course on this solid day trip that rewards walkers with primeval forest and harbour views.

McKerrow rises on the far side of Wellington Harbour, a nondescript ridge in the southern Remutaka Range, the more dramatic peaks of Papatahi and Mt Matthews behind it. Yet, on closer inspection, McKerrow is an excellent option for energetic day walkers. 

Take the Whakanui Track, which starts behind the beautifully manicured Wainuiomata Memorial Garden at the end of Hine Road. An initial and somewhat scrappy 1km sidle along Skerretts Creek leads to a junction with the track to Sunny Grove. From here, Whakanui Track is a well-formed path up a spur that steadily gains McKerrow’s ridge, less than an hour away. 

Early macrocarpas give way to forest, ancient and spectacular with terrific podocarps. This forest borders Wainuiomata Mainland Island, a predator-free sanctuary for endemic birds including pōpua (whitehead), kererū, tūi and kiwi. You will see signs reminding dogs to be kept on lead. 

At the end of Whakanui Track Track, turn right onto McKerrow Track. It is less than half an hour to another minor junction with a dilapidated sign pointing the way to ‘Coast Road Brigade Camp’ (Camp Wainui). There are some good views towards the Akatarawa Ranges along this section. 

It’s now another hour to the summit. Prepare yourself for the best and worst of the trip. Kererū swoop. Riroriro, tūī and pīwakawaka sing. Phenomenal birds-eye views over Wainuiomata, Te Whanganui-a-Tara and Raukawa Cook Strait unfold. A tiny patch of goblin forest can be enjoyed between Pt680 and McKerrow, and walkers may also spot Cortinarius porphyroideus, the violet mushrooms endemic to central New Zealand. Less endearingly, boots frequently disappear into calf-deep mud as one bashes at eye-level dracophyllum. One could, quite literally, trip over McKerrow’s flat summit (706m): a short pipe juts from the middle of the track to denote the top. This obnoxious excuse for a trig could possibly be Aotearoa’s most underwhelming high point marker and an ineffective rain gauge. 

You may well have McKerrow Track to yourself when approaching from Whakanui Track. A more popular ascent is made from Catchpool Valley, the main entrance to Remutaka Forest Park. This alternative allows walkers to link Clay Ridge Track with the McKerrow and Orongorongo tracks to make a loop. Clay Ridge is the easiest approach of the three but only has one viewpoint of note, not far from McKerrow’s summit. McKerrow can also be traversed in either direction if you’ve made transport arrangements.

McKerrow is a great option for all who love flora, fauna and views – and its gnarlier sections will appeal to anyone for whom a bit of filth equals a bit of fun.