Tramping in winter allows the opportunity to savour long evenings in which to really relax.

Starting Te Araroa from Cape Reinga in mid-January meant an endless summer vibe as I walked south. But long days of walking coupled with my dedication to photography took their toll; early sunrises and late sunsets meant I was surviving on just a few hours of sleep as I strove to make the most of the light. 

When I stepped off the water taxi at Ship’s Cove to begin the South Island leg, autumn was well underway and I began to enjoy a change of pace. The days became increasingly shorter, creating pressure to cover my daily distance. Arriving at and leaving huts in the dark became commonplace.    

But tramping the South Island through the tail end of autumn and well into winter meant I had the wilderness more or less to myself, and it was wonderful. I saw just two other trampers in the whole of the Richmond Range, and beyond there my encounters with others were rare. 

My partner joined me for some sections, but overall the sense of solitude through the cold months came to define my experience of Te Araroa. I came to relish the moment when I’d push open the door of a hut or pitch my tent and settle in for the evening, knowing that I now had the luxury of a long relaxed evening ahead. 

If there was a fire, I’d light it and settle in with a hot drink to read the hut book, then move on to dinner. I’d snuggle into my sleeping bag, Kindle in hand. I felt like I had it all: the remarkable light of winter, the sheer pleasure – and challenge – of walking all day, plenty of time to read – and nine hours to sleep. Finally, I made up my summer shortfall.