We were inspired by Geoff Chapple’s book Te Araroa: The New Zealand Trail, and began our walk in 2002.
My wife Susan and I, now into our late seventies, began at Cape Rēinga and planned to complete the trail over a few years, a definition that stretched somewhat as it was March this year before we completed the final Southland section. The trail has been a wondrous project and a motivation to keep tramping as we age.
We walked much of it before the trail was formally established. Guidance progressed from Chapple’s trail notes and notional maps to TA trail notes, printed topo maps with hand-held GPS assistance, and finally to checking our position as a blue dot on the trail app on our phones. Chapple’s 2011 classic A Walking Guide to Te Araroa breaks the trail into day walks and long tramps, and we have obsessively walked the full distance of all the trails and connections.
Initially there were few walkers, but lately, in the southern sections, we met many thru-hikers, predominantly young Europeans. Our ‘senior’ tramping style contrasted with these walkers, many of whom travelled light and fast. In contrast, our slow section-walking approach allowed us to appreciate a region’s characteristics and enjoy numerous on- and off-trail encounters. Approaching Invercargill, we met an Australian heading north and carrying a long wooden staff, lightly laden and determined to walk the South Island barefoot!
Nights were spent in myriad huts and tent sites with the occasional treat of a country hotel. Our experience in Northland at the Mangamuka Bridge Hotel and later in Southland at the Otautau Hotel exemplified unforgettable hospitality. Where possible we did day walks, and we planned the longer tramping sections carefully to minimise pack weight. It took us 65 days to walk the North Island and slightly less for the South Island, averaging about 24km each day.
We enjoyed every region. The Far North, Ninety Mile Beach and the forests were special, as was coastal walking to Auckland. The Pureora Forest, Whanganui River, Tararua, Kāpiti Coast and the spectacular walk into Wellington are clear memories. The entire South Island – the valley and backroad connections and the hard tramping sections – was magnificent. The Richmond Range, Nelson Lakes, Waiau Pass, Clent Hills and Two Thumb Range were true ‘highlights’. The East Ahuriri beyond Lake Ōhau and the spectacular Breast Hill section to Lake Hāwea were gems. The Takatimu Mountains were challenging for us and we didn’t appreciate the Longwood Forest mud, but we did enjoy the sunshine along the south coast to Bluff. Our diary entry on completion at Stirling Point reads: ‘no great elation but deep satisfaction; somewhat tired’.
It’s certainly possible for older people to complete the trail, providing they are reasonably fit. Doing a couple of summer sections can be an ideal incentive to maintain fitness. Plan carefully; refer to the TA website, read the trail notes and visualise the route.
Between November and March is the best time, but always be prepared to wait on the weather. The trail is becoming more popular and there can be large numbers of walkers converging south in late summer – a time best avoided. Allow extra time and rest days. Invest in quality footwear and wear it in. Pack light. Eat well. We found walking poles essential.
Te Araroa has been a gift to New Zealand and is a truly rewarding way to experience your own country.
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