At the highest point of the crossing, beside Red Crater (1868m), traverse the ridge towards Mt Tongariro (1967m). As the maunga is sacred to the local iwi, trampers are advised not to climb over the summit itself. In good weather, experienced navigators can also explore North Crater and the site of Ketetahi Hut (1450m), which grants fabulous views over lakes Rotoaira and Taupō.
The best diversion is the poled route to the twin lakes on the south side of Mt Ngāuruhoe. From the junction between Waihohonu Hut and Whakapapa Village, it takes 20min to visit Lower Tama and 90min return to reach Upper Tama. It’s a rough, uphill route over loose rock to the viewpoint.
At Perry Saddle Hut, go for a dawn recce up Mt Perry (1238m), an easy scramble following a rough ground trail to the top where there are views to the Tasman Sea. Allow 90min return.
From Gouland Downs Hut, the large entrance to Hut Cave is about 100m away, off-track and down a bank on your right. It was used as a base by forest service rangers, and their metal food safe is still there. Look for long-legged cave wētā and carnivorous Powelliphanta snails.
To visit more caverns, head westward for about 15min through fungi-draped beech of the Enchanted Forest. Drop your pack and find a small ground trail on the right. Look for waterfalls and fossil caves in the vicinity, take a torch, and take care. Further on, 600m-long Field Cave is a larger cavern marked on the topo map between Gunner River and Heaphy Hut.
Only 7km from the start is a short deviation to historic Garden Gully Hut. About 800m beyond this are the rusting remains of a quartz crushing battery and collapsed mine site. Allow 45min.
If you overnight at Ces Clarke Hut, make a dawn dash up Croesus Knob for a panorama of the rugged interior of the park and the vast ocean below.
The best-known sidetrack is the recently opened Pike 29 Memorial Track, a tribute to the 29 men killed in the underground explosion of November 2010. The 11km route leaves the Great Walk between Moonlight Tops and Pororari huts and climbs through montane scrub and dracophyllum before dropping 800m through virgin podocarp and red beech to the mine site. Allow 4–5hr each way.
Scenic detours are plentiful in our smallest national park. Cool off in the invigorating Cleopatra’s Pool, photograph the sunrise from Sandfly Bay, or tramp inland to the cascades on Falls River. From The Anchorage, follow the deviation to Te Pukatea Bay and the granite headland beyond – well worth the extra effort.
Rather than stopping at Tōtaranui, as many trampers do, allow an extra day to venture further north to secluded Anapai Bay and Mutton Cove, and spot the seals on Te Matau Separation Point.
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