I revelled in the sunshine, taking in the breathtaking Pelorus River and the towering kahikatea from the campground kitchen patio. It was my first day cycling the South Island on Tour Aotearoa, and I had mixed emotions about this, my first bikepacking trip.
Meanwhile, Marc, a Belgian geologist, was heading south on his 70th day of walking the length of New Zealand on Te Araroa. “I felt a bit insecure initially, but I kept moving forward,” he said. Marc told me his feet had blistered badly while walking Ninety Mile Beach. He was offered a place to stay in Kaitāia for four days to recover and had been overwhelmed by this act of kindness. “Meeting people along the trail has been the most magical experience of my life,” he told me.
During the next two weeks of bikepacking the South Island section of Tour Aotearoa, I crossed paths with numerous Te Araroa walkers. Tour Aotearoa and Te Araroa both cover 3000km, from Cape Rēinga to Bluff, and both are referred to as ‘the TA’ – but they meander separately. My riding was quite solitary; I was ambitious, often covering 100km in a day, and I grew fond of my encounters with walkers. These interactions were socially rewarding and informative: I saw how the walkers packed their bags, noted their hiking essentials, food choices and daily planning.
In May 2023 I completed my 1500km bikepacking journey. Four months later I started Te Araroa at Cape Rēinga. It was the beginning of a long chapter filled with adventure, contemplation, camaraderie and personal growth. On Te Araroa, particularly in the North Island, the network of trail angels provided ample opportunities to bond, something I’d wanted more of while cycling. Exhausted from the gruelling four days on Ninety Mile Beach, I got drenched near Kaitāia and went into a nearby café where I experienced the kindness Marc had spoken of. A retired school teacher bought me a hearty breakfast of waffles and recounted his days of trekking in the Himalaya. That serendipitous encounter became my much-needed impetus to keep going.
I had moved to New Zealand – my seventh country – in 2020. Despite my peripatetic lifestyle, I’ve always stayed connected with Nepal, where I’m from, especially the Everest region. New Zealand has strong links through the Himalayan Trust, founded by Sir Edmund Hillary. I’d started my education at a school built by Sir Ed. Walking Te Araroa allowed me to fundraise for the trust and give back to my Himalayan community.
In Palmerston North I stayed with Karen, a 2020 Te Araroa hiker who had just returned from Nepal after completing the Annapurna Circuit. We bonded over our love for Nepal, and her dual roles as a fellow walker and trail angel intrigued me. Karen said, “I’ve been fascinated by the stories and the opportunity to connect every time I host hikers.”
These human connections and cultural experiences made my journey a personal as much as a physical one.
Staying in huts, in particular, provided a place to bond. One of my fondest memories is of cramming into six-bed Captain Creek Hut in the Pelorus Valley with 11 others when a sudden downpour raged outside. Laughter and stories from our earlier trail days filled the hut as we shared our soggy snacks.
Walking the trail also provided a chance to give back that I didn’t experience while cycling. In Northland I helped to clear fallen branches, and when passing through Paihia I volunteered with DOC staff to tidy the trail. I learnt about the crucial role of stewardship, an aspect I’m keen to pursue further.
Te Araroa was more physically demanding than Tour Aotearoa. Those 118 days were also more immersive, showing me the true pleasures of travelling slowly – forming deeper connections with people and places. I was in the ‘trail bubble’, interacting with people who shared a common goal. It helped me to slow down and savour the present. Pausing to smell flowers, observe birds, chat with strangers or accept an invitation to lunch helped me to live in the moment and forget about getting to my next destination.
Since Te Araroa I appreciate this slowness and incorporate it into my life. I try to be more spontaneous and not plan everything. Things like reading, putting my phone away and journaling have helped me to slow down. I’ve adjusted my life to make room for more hikes. I’ve also sought ways to look after nearby trails and parks by volunteering for planting programmes.
I’m grateful for Tour Aotearoa because it introduced me to Te Araroa and the richness of slow travel. As my friend Marc said, it’s all about the journey and the people you meet.
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