That first Great Walk will always be memorable. Here three trampers share their experiences. By Claire Nelson

The Paparoa Track

Jessica Lockhart is a Canadian journalist based in Australia. Her first Great Walk was the Paparoa Track, which she started the day it opened in December 2019.

Why the Paparoa?

I had a chance to experience the track on opening day and to be one of the first to sleep at Moonlight Tops Hut. I didn’t start hiking until my late 20s, and although I’d done a few guided multi-day treks, I wanted to upskill with an unsupported overnight tramp. The Great Walks were ideal as I could carry less and had the added security of hut wardens.

My experience on the track … 

The Paparoa is renowned for incredible views of the surrounding ranges, including to Aoraki Mt Cook on a clear day. I didn’t see any of that. Heavy rain turned the track into a river and gale-force winds whipped around the ridgelines. At one point we were all clinging to tussock so we didn’t get swept off the mountain!

A memorable moment …

When I arrived at Moonlight Tops, everything in my bag was soaked and my pack cover had been blown away. The next day’s forecast was for severe gale-force winds and more heavy rain, so we decided to get below the treeline as quickly as possible. It was such a rapid descent that I later lost three toenails.

My biggest takeaway …

It verified how much I love the outdoors. I met a solid crew on the Paparoa Track and we banded together to get to the hut safely. Though we didn’t get the epic views, we were truly immersed in the wilderness. It gave me great respect for the folks who build New Zealand’s huts and tracks.

Since then …

Since then I’ve done countless unsupported overnight tramps. I walked the Milford Track in December 2022, and my latest Great Walk was the Hump Ridge Track in March this year.

Since doing the Paparoa Track …

I’m better prepared now. I carry extra food, use a rubbish bag inside my pack for extra protection, and have switched from restrictive hiking boots to Altras, which give my toes more room to spread out. I hired heavy-duty rain gear for the Milford Track.

Would I recommend Paparoa as a first Great Walk? 

West Coast weather is reliably wild, so maybe not if you’re a fair-weather outdoors person. However, its mountain-biking track status means the first day’s elevation (almost 800m) is more manageable than other tracks.

Abel Tasman Coast Track

Claire Nelson is a New Zealand author based in London. Her first Great Walk was the Abel Tasman Coast Track, which she completed in January 2010.

Why the Abel Tasman Coast Track?

Despite an outdoorsy Kiwi childhood, I didn’t embrace tramping until after I moved to the UK. It wasn’t until I brought my English boyfriend to New Zealand that I realised what I’d missed. We picked the Abel Tasman as it was easy to do from Wellington.

My experience on the track … 

We were incredibly lucky with the weather. Four days camping along a chain of white-sand bays connected by forest, occasionally navigating slips or detouring to a rocky bluff to watch seals. “I had no idea New Zealand was like this,” I said to my boyfriend. Like most of the world, he thought this was exactly what it was like.

A memorable moment …

We underestimated the speed of the tides  at Torrent Bay, and the water became waist-deep when we were only halfway across. We had our backpacks on our heads until a nice chap in a kayak came to rescue them. 

My biggest takeaway …

I saw my homeland through new, appreciative eyes and understood what New Zealand has to offer. It was also my first foray into multi-day tramping. I’ve since walked the Great Glen Way in Scotland, thru-hiked Te Araroa, and am keen to do more.

Since then …

On Te Araroa I got to do the Whanganui River Journey. I also upgraded the Tongariro section to the full Northern Circuit, which was such a highlight.

Since doing the Abel Tasman …

I was new to tramping, so there was plenty to learn. The whole experience was valuable prep for all other trails to come.

Would you recommend the Abel Tasman as a first Great Walk? 

Yes – elevations are relatively low, proximity to resorts eases concerns about being in the wilderness, yet there are enough challenges (tides! slips! sandflies!) to hold you in good stead for future adventures.

The Kepler Track

Graeme Rathgen is a biosecurity advisor based in the Waikato. His first Great Walk was the Kepler, which he walked in April 1999.

Why the Kepler?

I walked it with Dad and a couple of exchange students. Dad wanted to do the Kepler, and it fitted in with plans to see Milford Sound.

My experience on the track … 

Wet on day one and sunny by day three. Going up to Luxmore Hut we had such low visibility we had no idea of how far we had to climb. Given the weather, the hut was full of trampers who couldn’t carry on to Iris Burn, but everyone was sociable. We played a lot of card games.

A memorable moment …

Small scenes, like waking up to the view from Luxmore Hut, and sitting on the porch of Moturau watching a fantail chase a big fly just inches from me.

My biggest takeaway …

Having good gear, especially footwear, makes a big difference to comfort! And be realistic about your own abilities –  I found the people who talked up their skills the most were usually the first to be proven wrong.

Since then …

I’ve done sections of other Great Walks – Rakiura, Routeburn, Tongariro, Whanganui – and plenty of other tramps, including the North Island section of Te Araroa. I have also kayaked the Abel Tasman … it’s beautiful.

Since doing the Kepler …

I have a system for placing things in my pack, I also have lighter gear and I’m systematic with my meals, especially breakfast.

Would I recommend the Kepler as a first Great Walk? 

As a first Great Walk I would recommend Abel Tasman, Kepler or Tongariro, depending on fitness levels. The Kepler and Tongariro tracks have some decent climbs in them but also some great views.