“The weather is dodgy up there if you’re thinking about going over Waiau Pass tomorrow,” I say to the young lad as we cross paths, he on the way up to Blue Lake Hut, me on the way down. “You do have a personal locator beacon, I hope?”
“Bacon? Oh no, I have other food to eat,” he says in lilting French tones.
“No, I mean do you have a device? To call in an emergency?”
“Gas? Yes, I have gas.”
“No. This device.” I show him the PLB hanging off my bumbag. “To rescue you if you break a leg.”
He looks at me, horrified. “Oh no, I do not need. I am not breaking the leg. I need legs to walk South Island.”
He smiles broadly and skips off up the trail.
Within half an hour I had passed another southbound Te Araroa Trail walker without a PLB. These weren’t one-offs – during my time on the trail I met others without a safety device, or a first aid kit. I met a woman with a tarp for a tent and a man with a bivvy bag, people with no cooking stove or water treatment options, even trail walkers without underpants – all intent on reducing their pack weight.
“Pack weight is always a big consideration for backpackers, and a topic of much discussion,” says Dan Morriss, an American who has hiked the Continental Divide Trail, High Route Pyrenees, the South Island TA and is currently walking the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT).
“You can have people hiking the same trail with a heavy 20kg pack or a 5kg ultralight pack, [but] you see almost all long-distance hikers nowadays shooting for the lowest viable pack weight while still being prepared for foul weather.”
Morriss says when he walked the TA in 2018, his base weight was 8.5kg. On top of that he’d carry about a kilo of food per day and around a kilo of water. Now, on the PCT, his base pack weight is about 5kg without, he says, any reduction in comfort. He uses gear made from lighter material and is not carrying extra cold-weather gear, which he says is unlikely to be needed in summer on the PCT.
“I find that every kilogram makes a difference in how I feel throughout the day, how quickly I can hike, how long I can hike between breaks, how many kilometres I can expect to make in a day, and how exhausted I feel at the end of the day,” he says.

