There’s nothing more magical than the cold air numbing your face while the rest of your body is submerged in hot spring water.

When my friend Katie suggested we tramp the Copland Track in Westland Tai Poutini National Park, I jumped at the chance. 

I was fairly new to Aotearoa at that point and although I had read about natural hot pools all over the country, I’d never been to any. The closest I’d come was the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa which, although great to visit, isn’t the same as being in the backcountry enjoying some thermal minerals after a day’s tramp.

The Welcome Flat hot pools are at the end of the 18km, seven-hour track along the Karangarua and Copland rivers, and nestled in a valley with fine views of the Sierra Range on a clear day. 

“Just think of the hot pools,” said Katie as we trudged through the forest, the West Coast living up to its rainy reputation. We were cold and soaking wet.

We’d booked the campsite, but the hut wardens took pity on us. So not only did we have the hot pools to look forward to, but we also had a dry place to sleep afterwards.

As we changed into our togs the cold air whipped around us. We could see steam rising from the pools in the distance, just a short walk from the hut. The contrast between the crisp air and the velvety mud beneath our feet was divine, and I felt my muscles relax as we slipped into the warm water.

“Yep, this was worth it,” I said to Katie. We settled in for a long soak, with nowhere to be and plenty of time to kill. 

Soaking in thermal waters has long been recognised as therapeutic, cleansing and healing. Māori have long-held beliefs about the healing power of Aotearoa’s geothermally heated springs, and Katie and I both wanted to make the most of the mineral properties of the water.

There’s something quite energising about one part of your body feeling the cold bite of winter while the rest is submerged in warm water, especially when there’s a view of snow-capped mountains all around you.

I looked at Katie, who sat with her eyes closed and a contented smile on her face. 

“What other tracks have hot pools at the end?” I asked. “Because I think we need to start a list to tick off.”