Choose the right track in winter and there will be ample time to explore.

Settled weather, quieter huts and fewer sandflies – what’s not to like about winter tramping? When high mountain trails turn to ice and avalanche terrain, it’s time to seek out the plethora of lower-level tracks in Aotearoa. 

Like the Heaphy Track. Its highest elevation is just 915m. Yes, there might be snow around, but it’s most likely on the distant tops and not hindering your progress across those magnificent Gouland Downs, where the tussock shimmers in the low winter sun. There’s a good chance you’ll spot a pair of whio paddling in a shallow stream, or a big blue takahē out feeding. And while on the topic of Heaphy Track wildlife, there have actually been ‘complaints’ about roroa great spotted kiwi keeping campers awake at night by calling outside their tents. I can vouch for the fact that these birds don’t hibernate in winter.

I’ve walked the Heaphy twice in summer when the flowering rātā was stunning, swimming holes refreshing and each diverse day a delight. Great times, but it is a winter trip, my first to the area, that I recall most fondly. 

For one thing, the huts are not far apart, which was good for the short winter days – and for exploring side tracks. From Perry Saddle Hut we had ample time to detour up Mt Perry and look out to Mohua Golden Bay, Taranaki Maunga and over the downs.

Descending off the Gouland Downs, a different world waited. The tannin-stained Heaphy River heaved beside the track and ancient rātā loomed like sentinels, guarding the approach to the estuary and beach. Whatever the season, this place is simply primeval. 

Sure, there will be mountain bikers on the Heaphy in winter (permitted from May 1 to November 30), though fewer come here compared with the Old Ghost Road and Paparoa Track. But DOC figures reveal very few hut stays in winter months compared with summer. And a great thing about dual-use tracks is that the grade is gentle. Bring the family!

There are some things to note about walking the Heaphy in winter. Huts must be booked year-round, and transport operators service the track less frequently.