It takes just minutes to reach the first swing bridge over the Mangatainoka River from the end of Putara Road. From here it’s a gentle amble beside the river for about an hour to another, longer swing bridge. This lovely section of track has easy access to several fine swimming holes. 

From the second bridge it’s uphill through red beech forest for about an hour. The slog ends at the T-junction with tracks to Roaring Stag and Herepai huts. 

Turn left towards Roaring Stag Hut, which is popular with families and about two hours away. The track is muddy in patches but is a gentle stroll along a broad, flat ridge followed by a benign descent. Along this section there is stunning lowland podocarp and broadleaf forest and a variety of ferns and textures. 

Roaring Stag Hut is beautifully sited overlooking the Ruamahanga River, with Cattle Ridge looming above. There’s good space for tents. Fill your water bottle then cross the swing bridge immediately downstream and begin the two-hour tramp to Cattle Ridge Hut. 

Although Cattle Ridge has broad and uniform summits, it’s a fair climb from all directions. It’s a 500m gain to reach the leatherwood zone and the hut is 200m higher. Unlike Roaring Stag Track, this one is steep and rough – typical of the Tararua Ranges – so take your time. Just over a spur the hut appears above, about five minutes away. 

Cattle Ridge Hut was renovated in 2019 by the Wellington branch of the NZ Deerstalkers Association and is a light, bright five-bunker with a log burner, double-glazing and fresh paint. The enclosed porch is ideal for boots and wet gear and the hut feels spacious. It’s a fine place for a night, especially once settled with a warm cuppa and the fire going. 

Sunrise over the Wairarapa Plain and mist rising from the Ruamahanga Gorge far below can be enjoyed from the rear window.