Sometimes an epic adventure is needed, one that pushes you to the max. Sometimes all that’s needed is an easy, straightforward tramp that doesn’t compromise on quality or leave you wrecked.
For the latter, look no further than the Greenstone–Caples Track.
The 61km circuit has just one sustained climb of 400m and only 2200m of total elevation gain. But don’t be fooled by its apparent ease. The views, huts and quality of this track make it a worthwhile walk, one that’s in the same league as some Great Walks.
I was in charge of choosing a route, a role I normally relish. But research time was short, so a pre-packaged option was required that would achieve three things: be logistically uncomplicated, accommodate a range of tramping experience and, most importantly, impress two guests who were visiting New Zealand for the first time from the northwoods of Wisconsin, USA.
Logistically, it doesn’t get much easier than the Greenstone–Caples. The trailhead is just 90 minutes’ drive from Queenstown and, being a loop, no shuttle is required. Even if you lack wheels, it’s still easy, because many shuttle operators stop at the trailhead.
The circuit sticks mostly to valley floors, but the diversity of the landscape – rugged mountain views, beech forests, alpine meadows and grassy river flats – make it an unexpectedly interesting tramp.
After a leisurely breakfast in Queenstown and photo stops along the way, we still managed to hit the trail by noon.
From the car park to the Greenstone Hut is an easy, undulating three- to four-hour walk. The track hugs the steep valleys of the Greenstone River through dense beech forest almost the entire way. About 30 minutes in, after crossing the Caples River, the forest briefly gave way to a clearing where the clouds parted, showing views up the Caples Valley to Mt Bonpland (2343m) dusted with fresh snow.
Along the way we detoured 200m to Slip Flat Hut, a rustic but cosy three-bunk biv, before carrying on to 20-bunk Greenstone Hut, another 3km along. To our delight we had it to ourselves for the night.
Over dinner on the front porch we watched the mist ebb and flow around the peaks of the Livingston and Thomson mountains, then retreated inside to light a fire. With day one under our belts, I’d already exceeded my guests’ expectations.
The second day begins with a short bush walk before the track enters the wide open Greenstone Valley, with panoramic views of the Ailsa and Livingston mountains.
Eighteen kilometres between huts appears daunting, but with only 200m of elevation gain the kilometres flew by. The
valley is wide and we often walked two abreast, our heads spinning as we took in the majestic scenery. And we had it almost to ourselves, seeing just one group – our first of the trip.
We approached McKellar Hut, which sits in a small clearing with views of Jean Batten Peak (1971m), an hour before sunset.
It was near freezing, yet my friend Alex still took a dip in the stream in front of the hut. He did his best to coax us out by reminding us of times when we chipped holes in the ice for refreshing winter plunges back in the Midwest. We ignored his plea with a smile and a wave from the warmth of the hut.
McKellar Hut is named after David McKellar, one of the first Europeans to visit the area in 1862. However, the history is much older. These routes were used by Māori to travel between the West Coast and Central Otago in search of pounamu/greenstone. Hence the Greenstone Valley.
Next day was clear blue sky and we were giddy with anticipation of heading into the alpine zone over McKellar Saddle.
Soon after the hut the track crosses into Fiordland National Park. The dense forest gives way to Lake McKellar, the trail hugging the shoreline. On the far side, waterfalls tumble from the Ailsa Mountains. Beyond the lake the track crosses the marshy valley floor and the climb to McKellar Saddle begins. The beech forest changes to subalpine scrub and tussock-covered hills. The climb is steady and steep but gains only 400m altitude on a recently upgraded track. It was over before we knew it.
At 945m, the tarn-studded McKellar Saddle is the highest point on the circuit and offers sweeping panoramic views into Fiordland and down the Caples Valley. We were making good time, so scrambled up the hill to the north of the track for even better views and a bit of lunch.
From the saddle, the track re-enters the beech forest to descend into the Caples Valley, following the Caples River with glimpses of its clear, blue waters.
The Caples Valley is more forested than the Greenstone and free of cattle, making it the best place to see birdlife on the trip. We saw toutouwai, pīwakawaka and korimako every time we stopped. Kea may also be present in the upper sections of the valley, although we didn’t see any.
Halfway between McKellar Saddle and Mid Caples Hut is Upper Caples Hut. It was formerly a DOC hut, but is now managed by the NZ Deerstalkers Association and can be booked online. This is also the junction of the rugged Steele Creek Track, which cuts through the middle of the Greenstone–Caples loop.
From Upper Caples Hut the rest of the walk is nearly flat and winds through the grass-covered valley. With the sun sinking low in the sky, we had a dramatic golden-hour of hiking.
Twenty-four-bunk Mid Caples Hut sits on a small rise with unobstructed views of the mountains and river valley. If you don’t have time for the full circuit, an out-and-back to this hut is a worthy overnight trip.
We arrived just in time for sunset. Soon after dark two hunters arrived and happily shared some venison steaks with us – a real treat on our last night.
The next morning it was frosty so we opted for a second round of coffee and devoured the rest of our snacks while we let the sun emerge. Even with the slow start, we were back at the car by lunchtime.
The tracks around Glenorchy are some of the best in the country. There’s the Routeburn Track Great Walk and the Rees–Dart, which is famous for its glacial views.
It would be a bold tramper to claim the Greenstone–Caples is superior to either of these. But it’s not far behind – possibly even equal when you factor in the easier walking and logistics for a similar rewarding experience.
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