Spurred on by wild weather

Our trip began with a car journey south from Christchurch through Fairlie and into the big, bare hills of the Sherwood and Ben McLeod ranges. These striking mountain ranges are high – over 2300m in places – and have little if any forest cover. Being predominantly tussock-covered, they possess a spacious grandeur reminiscent of the altiplano (high planes) in South America.

The hike in was easy enough over an undulating vehicle track all the way to the hut. It began with a poled easement from the car park into Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Area. But, with strong winds and threatening rain surging in from the west, I was pleased we weren’t on a harder hike.

The high peaks were shrouded in rolling grey clouds when we entered the upper Orari River catchment, after having climbed over an easy pass on the North Opuha Track to locate the small hut.

Spurs Hut is a relic from mustering days and dates to 1896. It has had a fairly substantial makeover in recent years with a full re-cladding and a deck added. It clings to a windswept site where regular gales sweep over its diminutive frame after descending the 2000m peak at the valley head.

Opening the door as the rain came in from the north-west, we were greeted by a tidy little space, not unlike a large cupboard, replete with four bunks, a cooking bench, log fire and one seat.

Once inside and with the fire on, we were set for the first night.

The sky was clear next day, but ominously stacked with giant lenticular clouds. An enormous zeppelin-like cloud was poised directly above the hut – fair warning that we could expect gales in the near future. Before heading off to explore the valley head, and a possible ascent of its 2000m summit, we spent time fossicking for wood in the shallow gully just north of the hut.