From the top of Bruce Road, head roughly south through Whakapapa Skifield for 2km, keeping the Sky Waka gondola to the east and staying above the bluffs of Tawhainui Stream (the Amphitheatre). Aim for the Whakapapa Glacier with the peak Paretetaitonga (2751m) on the skyline above. This is the route to the saddle between Dome (2672m) and Paretetaitonga.

Veer slightly southwest above the Amphitheatre and head for the top of the Far West T-bar. Look back to savour the views as you ease ever higher. About 200m before the top of the T-bar there’s a choice of continuing south-southwest onto the Whakapapa Glacier, or due south up a spur for one kilometre to Matairangi, the equipment shed housing volcanic monitoring equipment. It’s a worthy detour. In winter you’ll find Matairangi covered with ice and snow and, from its perch on Glacier Knob, it’s a stunning vantage point for snaps of Pinnacle Ridge and Ngāuruhoe. 

The spur beyond Glacier Knob leads to Dome, so sidle back to the Whakapapa Glacier and continue ascending. 

Crater Lake appears suddenly just beyond the saddle at the top of the glacier. The sense of awe here is magnificent: a ring of white peaks encircles a steaming grey bowl and time and motion seem to stop – so different to the world of skiers and snowboarders below. 

From the saddle, zig-zag to gain Paretetaitonga’s southeast ridge, directly in front to the southwest. Once on the ridge it’s a straightforward climb to the top. This is ‘the moment’ that makes the trip. 

From here, Te Ika-a-Maui unfolds in all directions. Hawke’s Bay is visible beyond the crater, Whanganui lies to the south, and Taranaki and Karioi float out west.

To return, follow Pare Ridge north off the summit and drop onto Whakapapa Glacier just before Pt2580. Then retrace your path to Bruce Road, with options to vary your descent if you choose. It’s also possible to combine a trip up Paretetaitonga with a visit to other summits, the most obvious being Dome.  Although crampons are likely necessary, neither front pointing or ropes are needed.