The track begins somewhat incongruously through a wrought-iron gate, a literal symbol of the Iron Gates Gorge in the valley below. 

Following the line of an old milling road, the wide track leads to an attractive arched bridge across Umutoi Stream. After a short, steady climb though beech forest, the signposted junction with the Tunupō Track is reached. This leads directly up a forested spur onto the Ngamoko Range, climbing close to 800m over 5.5km to the summit of Tunupō. 

The ascent starts gradually enough.  Higher up, the forest grows steadily more stunted, with the exception of mountain cedar protruding through the canopy. Eventually, leatherwood takes over.  

The summit of Tunupō (1568m) has a solar-powered repeater station on it, visible from some distance away. On a good day, views expand across much of the lower North Island, including the distant pyramid of Taranaki, bulky Ruapehu and the distinctive cone of Ngāuruhoe. Closer to hand lie the Pohangina Valley and the main Ruahine Range. Your route lies to the north on pleasantly undulating tops. Great mats of white daisy break up the dominant tussock, with russet-red patches of Dracophyllum recurvum too. Past the signposted turn-off to Top Gorge Hut are small scatterings of tarns, which offer water and a campsite for those with tents.

On a rounded knoll west of Pt1519m, warratahs indicate where you head northeast to the track leading into the Ōroua Valley. This long ridge is a pleasingly gentle way to descend, at first among tussock, then through leatherwood, and finally along a delightfully forested ridge, green with moss and ferns, and easy on your downhill muscles until the very last descent to the hut. 

Iron Gate Hut was opened in 2019. It’s roomy, with 10 bunks and a good deck, and is a vast improvement on the rat-infested, mouldering old hut that it replaced. 

On the map the track down Ōroua Valley looks like it follows the river closely, but in reality it climbs a fair amount well above the river. If river levels allow, experienced trampers can choose to boulder-hop downstream in the riverbed, where there is a good chance to spot whio. 

It’s possible to rejoin the track at the Tunupō Creek confluence.  

Further downstream, Cyclone Gabrielle resulted in a slip on the track close to the Ōroua River, between Tunupō Creek and Cumberfield Creek. A reroute has been cut, taking walkers east of the river and beyond a historic slip before meeting up with the valley track again.

The trail then passes Alice Nash Memorial Heritage Lodge, high above the Ōroua, and then it’s an easy 30–40min stroll back to the car park.