This can be an engaging trip for Wellingtonians who fancy a day walk with some off-track navigation, public transport access and cafés for after-trip refreshments. It does mean splashing in and out of a stream, so is best done in summer.
It’s a thru-trip, but both ends are well served by public transport. Take the No. 83 bus from Wellington to the Muritai Road/Kowhai Street stop in Eastbourne. The walk finishes at Days Bay, where a ferry can be taken or another 83 bus back to the city. Travelling by car includes an extra 3km road walk to get back to the start.
Take a map and compass, or navigation app, as basic navigation skills are required.
Take the Kowhai Track into East Harbour Regional Park and drop to Butterfly Creek to follow the signs to the Butterfly Creek picnic area.
Gollans Stream flows under the bridge that leads to the picnic tables. The goal is to follow the stream all the way to the top of Mt Lowry. You’ll be splashing through it a lot but there is an unofficial track used by possum trappers. Follow the pink markers, but if you lose them head back to the stream and you can’t go wrong.
It’s fairly slow going but the pace allows walkers to notice details such as ferns, fungi and native orchids.
About halfway up there’s a significant kink in the stream, known to the locals as the S bend – check the map and you’ll see why. This can lead to significant disorientation – standing in the middle of the kink, the water flows opposite ways on either side. Once you’ve sorted this out, you’ll find that you’re in another picnic area complete with a fireplace and two rope swings to play on.
Another hour splashing upstream comes to a place where two branches of Gollans Stream converge. Take the ridge between the branches and climb steeply towards Mt Lowry (373m). This is another possum trapping line and there are pink markers, but keep an eye on your navigation devices.
At Mt Lowry you’re back on official tracks. There’s a great view to Wellington and, on a good day, out to the South Island’s Kaikōura Range.
Main Ridge Track features beautiful beech forest. Follow the signs south to Days Bay via the Ferry Road Track, where you can be rewarded with an ice cream, coffee or beer before cruising back to Wellington on the ferry or bus.

