“That’s the maunga,” said Te Ngaehe Wanikau, tears coursing gently over the tā moko on his face. “The maunga chooses, and the maunga chose you.” Wanikau is tumuaki (leader) for Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro, the kaitiaki (guardians) of Tongariro Maunga. He had been explaining to me the depth of his iwi’s connection with the mountain, […]

