An island day trip

May 2011

Read more from

May 2011

The scoured out Kaiarara Stream. Photo: Richard Davies
Mt Hobson, Great Barrier Island

The Great Barrier forest clings to the spine of the island and is the home to a number of threatened species. It was ravaged by loggers in the early part of the 20th century, with the Kauri Timber Company in particular removing a huge amount of native forest.

Then in the 1950s the New Zealand Forest Service bulldozed a road through the island that now provides easy walking or mountain bike access into the heart of Great Barrier.

From Port Fitzroy an easy walk took us along the start of the Forest Road and into Kaiarara Hut, a large but comfortable hut set in attractive forest next to the pleasant Kaiarara Stream.

We followed an easy track up the north branch of the stream. Glimpses into the streambed itself revealed open but difficult travel with lots of bedrock and small falls. This is the result of the logging techniques that were practised on the island. Once the kauri was felled, the trees were held behind dams in the steep streams. A mechanism was then tripped and a man-made flash flood of water and trees roared down the valley carrying the logs to the coast. Decades later, the streambed still shows the damage caused by this practice.

We soon arrived at the sign that marks the short track down to an extant kauri dam. This is an impressive feat of bush-engineering and is an important relic.

The track continues to climb and occasional glimpses of the stream revealed the same scoured bedrock and derelict remains of other dams. At the last stream crossing the track begins a very steep climb, assisted by modern engineering: hundreds of steps carried us towards the summit of Mt Hobson the highest point on the island. Just below the summit is a major intersection with tracks (and further steps) leading towards Windy Canyon (worth a look in its own right) and Mt Heale. The steps here are not just to assist the tramper – they protect the endangered taiko (storm petrel) which nest in the cloud forest up here.

We headed up to the trig for great views of the island and neighbouring Little Barrier, and signed the ‘summit book’.

Then it was back to the intersection and South towards Mt Heale. Mt Heale is an impressive ‘thumb’ of volcanic rock and the good track sidles it. Just past the junction with the Peach Track is the new Mt Heale Hut. This has stunning views and is a real asset for recreation on the island.

We then completed our day trip by descending the track on the south side of Kaiarara Stream back to the forest road and Kaiarara hut.

– Richard Davies

Ray Salisbury

About the author

Ray Salisbury

Ray Salisbury is an author and photographer living in Nelson with his wife and cat. He studied design and photography and has been contributing to Wilderness since 1997. His books include Tableland: The history behind Mt Arthur and EPIC: Adventures across Aotearoa. Ray began tramping with a camera more than 50 years ago and has visited over 500 backcountry huts.

More From Wild Trips

Related Topics

Similar Articles

75 top trampers’ peaks

Gambolling in the Goulter

A dark experience

Trending Now

Apply for the Shaun Barnett Memorial Scholarship

Upgrading to ultralight without replacing everything

Walk1200km‭ ‬in 2026

DOC’s best huts

50 great walks for kids

Subscribe!
Each issue of Wilderness celebrates Aotearoa’s great outdoors — written and photographed with care, not algorithms.Subscribe and help keep our wild stories alive.

Join Wilderness. You'll see more, do more and live more.

Already a subscriber?  to keep reading. Or…

34 years of inspiring New Zealanders to explore the outdoors. Don’t miss out — subscribe today.

Your subscriber-only benefits:

All this for as little as $6.75/month.

1

free articles left this month.

Already a subscriber? Login Now