If you turn to page 56 you will see a photograph of a scene that most people don’t experience on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The author of the story, Kathy Ombler, is alone at Emerald Lakes. Most photos of this scene invariably include dozens of other walkers – often a long line of trampers making their way past the lakes and on to the Ketetahi end of the track.

But it’s a view more people might get the chance to experience in future. There is already a booking system to walk the track, and it is compulsory to book if you’re using a transport operator to get to and from the track, as 75 per cent of walkers do. 

But while it’s currently not possible to see how many others have booked the TAC for the same day as you, that will soon change: a new feature will show if your chosen day is popular with other trampers. If your plans are flexible, you could perhaps change to a quieter day. 

The tool is just one in a raft of improvements designed to help trampers better enjoy their time on the country’s most popular alpine day walk.

Another thing walkers can look forward to: Manaaki Rangers, representing mana whenua, will greet them as they arrive and leave the track.

The rangers are not new, but their message of safety and respect for the maunga is as important for Kiwi trampers as it is for overseas hikers. How many walks are there in New Zealand – in the world – where you are greeted by tangata whenua and told the story of their connection to the landscape you are about to pass through? I can think of few better ways to enhance the experience of a trip. 

Prior to Covid I felt some shine had been taken off the TAC as scenes of record crowds, track-sides littered with human waste and cars parked for kilometres along the side of Mangatepopo Road gave it the appearance of an overrun tourist hellscape.

A great reset is underway on the TAC that promises to make the experience better for all.