Tongariro National Park is my favourite park in New Zealand. Mostly that’s because it’s the most accessible from Auckland, where I live. But also because I’ve had so many exceptional experiences there from childhood through to last year.

I’ve skied, tramped, climbed, camped, cramponed, glissaded, cooked, tested gear, boiled the billy and more in all four corners. 

So it was with a real delight to put together the story about walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (TAC) at night. Here is a novel experience that I have not yet had: a midnight to dawn walk through the incredible volcanic landscape with almost no one in sight. 

However, it seems it truly is impossible to have the TAC ‘all to yourself’ these days as the author encountered another couple at Red Crater at 6am.  (I’ve done the TAC twice in mid winter and, although people were few and far between, there was always another hardy tramper or two wanting to give it a go.) 

One aspect of the night time Tongariro story I like so much is that, as long as you don’t mind the 2am start, it is an adventure that sounds difficult but is in fact eminently repeatable so long as you have the correct gear and conditions are acceptable. That means you can most likely do it and that’s why walking the TAC at night is now on my list of experiences to have in Tongariro. 

This issue we also celebrate all the good things about winter tramping. It’s definitely much more challenging to go tramping when it’s cold, and there might be snow or ice underfoot. But I consider the reward to be so much greater than when you tramp in summer. A lot of that might be down to the extra challenge and the feeling of accomplishment that comes from doing something outside your comfort zone. But also, the warmth to be found in a hut, the splendid isolation and the winter landscape – one covered in snow – which I find completely transfixing and beautiful. 

Here’s a challenge: visit your favourite park this winter and try a trip you have previously only done in summer. I guarantee you will find peace, tranquillity, beauty and a huge sense of satisfaction.