Just south of Hokitika, the Toaroha Valley is best known for Cedar Flat Hut and the nearby hot springs. Most visitors are on a one-night mission to soak in the hot pools. 

But the Toaroha Valley has much more to offer. Flanked by the Diedrichs and Toaroha ranges, there are tops galore to explore, and Zit and Toaroha saddles provide passes into the Kokatahi and Mungo valleys. If you’re a hut bagger, a trip up the Toaroha with the odd side trip can net seven huts and bivvies.

One hut is Yeats Ridge, a four-bunker perched above Toaroha Valley at 970m in a large basin surrounded by attractive sub-alpine scrub and abundant red tussock. It feels remote and there are impressive views.

From the car park, a well-marked route leads across farmland to the forest where the track follows an old tramline through to the Toaroha River.  The route goes up the true right of the river bed for about a kilometre before entering the bush again. There are some good swimming holes along the river. The track then climbs above the Toaroha Canyon, before gradually dropping back down to Cedar Flat and the bridge across to the hut. There are two huts here, a newer hut with 12 bunks, and the historic bright orange two bunk hut with an open fire. 

It’s 30min from Cedar Flats Hut to the turnoff to Yeats Ridge. The track climbs steeply for about 450m through typical West Coast forest, past gnarled rātās and majestic mountain cedars, into the subalpine zone. There’s a picturesque, flat section along the ridge where small, moss-lined tarns, nestled in a mosaic of red tussock, mountain flax, tree daisies and dracophyllum, reflect the mountains.

The spacious and tidy hut, well looked after by Permolat, is a short walk from here over a low scrubby rib. There’s no fireplace, but if you carry some dead wood from the forest there is space for a fire outside. There is also no toilet, but a shovel is provided. Don’t expect to camp – there are extensive peat bogs, and dry campsites are non-existent. 

If you want to continue, a round trip incorporates nearby Crystal Biv. Those with a head for heights and excellent navigation skills could also follow an interesting ridge around to Zit Saddle and Adventure Biv.

Yeats Ridge Hut is a wonderful destination and can be reached in a day from the road end or as a day trip from Cedar Flats Hut.