There is always inherent risk when around volcanic terrain, but the odds of an actual eruption occurring while I was camping on the northern flanks of Mt Tongariro were minimal. What was certain though was the breathtaking view over golden tussock to the blue expanse of Lake Rotoaira below. Beyond, Pihanga (1326m) formed a beautiful forested barrier between this and Lake Taupō, shimmering dreamlike in the distance.

Pitching my tiny tent on the footprint of the old Ketetahi Hut, I savoured the grandstand panorama as feeble winter sunlight shone on the windblown tussock. To the east the smouldering Te Maari craters rumbled. I was glad I wasn’t here at midnight on August 6, 2012 when Te Maari exploded after being dormant for a century. Rocks were propelled up to 2.3km away, causing major damage to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and smashing through the hut’s roof and into the bunks and floor. Luckily, no one was there. The hut became a day shelter and was subsequently removed in 2019; sections of the track were re-routed. 

During summer, but not winter, DOC encourages day walkers to begin at the Mangatepopo Road end and to use a shuttle service to avoid clogging up the car park. The nearest road access is at the Ketetahi car park off SH46. From here, a steady climb on a good track meanders through delightful forest. Then, it’s gently sloping subalpine terrain to the snowline at 1460m. Beyond the hut site, crampons and an ice axe should be carried to continue the journey. 

Today, signage warns trampers of the dangers in this dynamic landscape.