It starts with an easy stroll down a wide farm track to an arch bridge over Umutoi Creek before crossing into Ruahine Forest Park where, after 20min, there’s a right turn at Tunupō Track junction.

The track now gets a bit more serious. It ascends through bush on a long, undulating ridge for 6km to the alpine zone, where it picks its way through leatherwood and into the tussock. It’s unmarked from here but the way is easy to follow. The final push to Tunupō’s summit involves scrambling over bluffs high above Umutoi Creek, although the trail veers from any dangerous slope.

Tunupō, at 1568m, is the highest point in the Ngamoko Range. On a golden day there are 360-degree views. Ruapehu rises over the Whanahuia Range to the north and Kāpiti appears like a bump on the horizon to the south. The Hawke’s Bay plains contrast to the steep relief of the fertile Rangitikei hill country. It’s a beautiful spot for lunch, if prone to a breeze. Keep an eye out for kārearea.

The route north-east off Tunupō is obvious and there’s now a delightful hour of skipping over broad summits to Pt1505. But don’t become complacent – the near-uniform ridge could lead the unwary down a false spur, especially in poor visibility.

At Pt1505, turn south-east down the spur and pick up a track at the bush line. There’s a last-minute tumble into the upper Pohangina Gorge before splashing through shallow waters to the hut. You’ll reach Top Gorge Hut about two hours from Pt1505.

The hut dates from 1981. It has four bunks, an open fire and concrete floor. It’s a sweet spot but at 950m above sea level, and in a shady valley, it can be nippy. DOC has classified it as ‘minimal maintenance’ so it won’t be replaced if it becomes dilapidated. Thankfully, local volunteers appeared to be giving it some TLC when I was there.

If you want a different way home, a loop can be made from Pt1505 to Iron Gate Hut and back to the car park. This is most comfortably done with a night at Top Gorge Hut. Top Gorge Hut can also be approached from the east, via Longview Hut and Rocky Knob.