New Zealand’s highest mountain north of the Aoraki Mount Cook region is also one of the 10 ultra-prominent peaks of Aotearoa, making this classic climb a priority for anyone’s list.

Powerful geological forces have shaped the spectacular mountain outliers of the Inland and Seaward Kaikōura ranges. They stand tall, separated from the more closely aligned peaks and ranges of the Southern Alps by the deep intermontane valleys of the Clarence and Awatere rivers. The tallest peak of these ranges, Tapuae-o-Uenuku (2885m), is hard to miss. Viewed from the Wellington coast on a winter’s morning, the ‘Footsteps of the Rainbow God’ may appear like a white pyramid, shimmering above the waters of Cook Strait, while travellers along the Kaikōura coastal highway can’t fail to miss this impressive peak as they look inland. It can be the only peak in the Inland Kaikōura Range to still hold snow into summer.

The journey past the vineyards of Marlborough’s sun-bleached coastal valleys follows the Awatere River inland into a landscape reminiscent of Central Otago with its open grazing land and rain-shadow climate. By the time you leave the car and cross the high-country farming land of Gladstone Station to reach Hodder River, you already feel a long way from anywhere.

The Hodder is the standard access route and is infamous for the up to 80 crossings required of this narrow but sometimes fast-flowing river. A second pair of lightweight hiking boots is advisable for the tramp up the river to Hodder Huts, the twin huts from which most people climb ‘Tappy’, as the mountain is often colloquially known. The gradual, nearly 1000m climb to the huts (6 and 12 bunks) takes 6–8hr.

From the huts, the classic Staircase Stream route is a straightforward Grade 2 climb following mostly rock and scree in summer, but an ice axe and crampons are usually necessary any time of the year. Confidence on loose ground, scrambling and moderate snow is required for the nearly 1500 vertical metre climb to the summit. At first, the route follows the river terrace beyond the huts for roughly 1km to reach the Hodder River/Staircase Stream confluence. Cross the river and follow intermittent trails along the east terrace of Staircase Stream until 1.5–2hrs beyond the huts. After a small but prominent waterfall, continue up easy slopes towards the Mt Alarm–Tapuae-o-Uenuku saddle, then head east, sidling under a rocky peak (2711m) until the main ridge is gained. Spectacular views of the Awatere and Clarence valleys and the Seaward Kaikōura Range follow as you make the final climb up the southwest ridge to the summit. 

An alternative route from Staircase Stream sidles into a basin above the waterfall and then into a basin northwest of the summit. From the head of the basin climb to the north ridge, or directly southwest to the top. To descend, reverse the route, or follow the north ridge and descend a gully just before Pinnacle (2720m).