Fiordland and Mt Aspiring National Parks cover more than 16,000km². I love this mountainous country, its steep-walled valleys representing the slowly chiselled memories of once-huge glaciers that have long since melted to the sea. 

The Routeburn Track forges a wonderful link between these two great tracts of land. It roughly follows an old trail used by Māori and then early European explorers, crossing between the Routeburn and Hollyford valleys and from Aspiring National Park to Fiordland National Park.

The track passes through a varied and at times surprisingly intimate landscape, offering a unique perspective across Hollyford Valley to the Darran Mountains. In particular, the approach to and crossing of Harris Saddle carries with it a heady alpine atmosphere. Cliff faces and mountains rise all around and a cool breeze may blow from the snowy summits of Fiordland’s highest peaks, Mt Tūtoko and Mt Madeline, across the other side of the Hollyford Valley. 

Photogenic Mt Xenicus (1912m), its name associated with the pīwauwau rock wren, sits just to the north of Harris Saddle and rises in a series of rocky knolls above Lake Harris. The mountain’s southwest ridge can be completed in a long day from the Routeburn Shelter car park. But if you have time, a more interesting trip is to camp above the Valley of the Trolls near Lake Wilson then circumnavigate Mt Xenicus to climb it from the east. This route is best attempted in summer and autumn when it is completely free of snow.

To reach the Valley of the Trolls and Lake Wilson, walk the Routeburn Track from Routeburn Shelter to Harris Saddle, then drop down a rough track just below the saddle. The track descends to Lake Harris and continues along the western shoreline and onto low-lying swampy land while roughly following the stream that drains Lake Wilson. Continue up the western branch of the stream, scrambling up a steeper section where the terrain narrows before opening out again at the lake. There are campsites here or further up the broad spur running towards Pt1578m. 

Next, take a rising traverse to the east, travelling under the southern aspect of Mt Erebus (also a worthy summit) and generally angling towards Pt1821m. There is some steep country here, including a mixture of scree, grassy slopes and rocky bluffs, as well as a gorge below the saddle between Pt1821m and Pt1829m, which should be avoided. There is   relatively straightforward travel if you explore for the best option, but if in doubt, keep scrambling up broken, rocky ground towards Pt1821m. If anything feels too tricky, search for another way.

From near Pt1821m, traverse south across the saddle below Pt1829m, aiming for another saddle between Pt1722m and Mt Xenicus. There is some steep country here, too, but also an easy crossover that leads beneath the eastern aspect of Xenicus. Traverse generally south now, across more grassy and scree slopes, while keeping an eye out for an easy, direct route to ascend the short distance to the summit.

Descend the same way then keep traversing adjacent to the mountain’s southeast ridge until you reach an elevation of about 1600m. Look for a straightforward place to cross over the ridge, heading south, then start descending through rocky terrain and scree, generally aiming for Pt1455m to the east of Lake Harris. There are some steep sections, especially on the left-hand side while descending, but these can be avoided by exploring for the best route. From Pt1455m, it is easy to descend to and then cross the Route Burn. A short track will take you up to the Routeburn Track and back to the car park.