Traverse the exposed Robert Ridge to the jewel of Nelson Lakes and its namesake hut.

The most direct route to Rotomaninitua Lake Angelus is from the Mt Robert car park, 10min drive southwest of St Arnaud. From here, Pinchgut Track gains height steadily through the forest using switchbacks that skirt the edge of a gigantic eroded scar. 

Top out on the grassy crest of Pourangahau Mt Robert (1421m) where there are sensational views of Lake Rotoiti, 800m below. Look out for kea nesting nearby. A short distance along the broad ridgetop is Relax Shelter, a simple emergency hut maintained by Nelson Ski Club.

Beyond the junction with Paddy’s Track, a sign warns of potential risks ahead. If the weather is worsening, this ‘decision point’ is the prudent place to turn around. Severe winds and poor visibility are common, and several hikers have come to grief on this route. There is no water source on this ridge.

The Pinchgut Track continues for another kilometre to the junction at 2nd Basin. On the left are the twin lodges of Nelson’s first ski field, founded in 1944. 

Skirt above 2nd Basin and continue on the Robert Ridge Route to Flagstaff (1690m). During colder seasons, crampons may be needed when proceeding to Julius Summit (1794m), named after Julius von Haast, who ventured here in 1860. 

Beyond here, the terrain gets more difficult, sidling below the craggy peak for a kilometre with some steep drop-offs.

Above 4th Basin, the route threads through rocks before regaining the ridge – arguably the crux of the traverse. Eventually, a signpost at the head of Speargrass Creek will be reached, and further on is a small saddle with views of Rotomaninitua Lake Angelus and Angelus Hut below. A steep descent leads to this 28-bunk lodge, which has double-glazed windows, separate bunk rooms, woodstove and four long drops. Services are reduced over winter, and wood and tap water may not be available.

Aspiring mountaineers may enjoy an early morning climb of Maniniaro/Angelus Peak (2075m). This is usually a straightforward scramble in summer.

Return the same way, or choose an alternative route. These include the Cascade Track or Sunset Saddle, both of which descend into the Travers Valley. The route down Te Horowai Speargrass Creek is the quickest way off the exposed tops but has its own inherent dangers. In winter the track may be layered with ice, some sketchy scree slopes require a bit of nerve to cross, and half a dozen river crossings in the valley can become impassable after rain. It takes a couple of hours to reach 12-bunk Speargrass Hut from Lake Angelus. The forested track to the trailhead sidles above a gurgling river and takes between 2–3hr.