I have no patience for anti-Aucklander sentiment. I often endure it while travelling and tramping my way around Aotearoa, and it’s always the same. Never clever, never witty, and always from the lips of Pākehā boomers – likely the same culprits who take trans-Tasman rivalry too far, believe that ‘boys will be boys’, and spend their lives picking low-hanging fruit. You know the type. 

I’ve developed a hesitation whenever I’m asked where I live. Do I come straight out with it or lead with a self-deprecating comment? Do I apologise? Do I slur the words ‘Mt Wellington’ in the hope they’ll believe my home is in the capital? 

Okay, here goes, I’ll be honest: “I’m from Auckla …”

“Oh, a JAFA! Where are you from? PonSNOBBY?” 

I get it. We live in the big smoke where traffic erodes sanity and weather is at best confusing, and at worst an ever-changing humid sweat-fest. Four seasons in a day? Try an hour. We have little in the way of life-changing scenery – the mountains are pathetic, disappointing lakes are full of angry swans and the rivers will make you sick quicker than you can say ‘100 Percent Pure New Zealand’. 

But despite its over-populated tracks and at times lacklustre scenery, life really isn’t so bad for trampers living in Tāmaki Makaurau. Here’s why. 

West really is best

For sheer drama, Auckland’s west coast is on par with any stretch of coastline in Aotearoa. Though Waitākere Regional Park remains partially closed due to kauri dieback and storm damage, more tracks are opening all the time, and according to Auckland Council, overnight adventures are the next priority. Te Henga Walkway is one of the best day walk options, even now that is is partially closed (the section from Tirikohua Point south to Bethells Beach is inaccessible as major sections of the cliffs have collapsed). Also excellent is the Comans Track/Mercer Bay Loop, a well-graded half-day walk with views aplenty; or Whatipu’s stunning Omanawanui Track. Get an early start or walk off-season to beat the crowds.

A Pacific Island getaway

Aucklanders are good at making the most – we know our scenery isn’t as good as much of Aotearoa’s, but we appreciate it nonetheless because it’s ours. The same can’t be said for the Hauraki Gulf, however – it is world class. Tiritiri Matangi is as good as any of New Zealand’s wildlife sanctuaries, and Aotea/Great Barrier Island gives any Pacific holiday a run for its money. Waiheke is perfect for a slower-paced adventure, and its track network is constantly growing. You mightn’t find your fill of traditional tramping here, but nor should you try to. Set your body clock to island time, explore the trails and beaches at a slower pace, and don’t forget to pack your snorkel and togs. 

Plan a regional park recce

There are just three national parks in the North Island, and all of them are south of Taupō. Luckily, Auckland went ham with regional parks, and there truly are some treasures. Tāwharanui Peninsula is Aotearoa’s first open sanctuary to integrate conservation, recreation and farming. Here you will find white sand beaches alongside grazing sheep, and native forest teeming with endangered fauna including kiwi, tīeke and takahē. Wenderholm boasts the largest planted pōhutukawa grove in New Zealand, Hunua has some of Auckland’s most challenging day walks, and Mahurangi provides tracks and campsites on the doorstep of arguably Auckland’s most scenic harbour. There are 27 regional parks to explore – time to get cracking.

Get out

Yes, I see the irony in telling people to leave Auckland in an article defending it, but if you have a weekend to spare, Auckland’s proximity to wonderful tramping destinations is one of its best assets. To the north is Whangārei Heads and to the south and east, the Coromandel and Kaimai ranges await, all within three hours’ drive. For forest parks, trampers have Pirongia, Pureora and Whirinaki to choose from, and slightly further afield (as far as Aoraki is from Christchurch) awaits Tongariro National Park and its wealth of adventures. 

Next time you hear someone running down Dorkland, point them in the right direction.