Of New Zealand’s 775 lakes only a few have a hut sitting on their shore. Here are some of the best.
The hottest month of the year surely calls for tramping to a lake: somewhere to swim, to paddle your feet, or at least to appreciate the reflections.
According to scientist Simon Nathan in the online encyclopaedia Te Ara, there are 775 lakes in New Zealand, occupying about 1.3 per cent of our terrestrial land. He defines a lake as being at least 500m long, which excludes the vast majority of alpine tarns. The county’s lakes have been formed by a range of processes: 38 per cent by glaciers, 16 per cent by rivers, 15 per cent by dunes, four per cent by volcanoes and five per cent by landslides.
Some backcountry areas have few lakes – Colenso and Chalice are the only lakes in the Ruahine and Richmond ranges – and many of the North Island axial ranges, such as the Tararua, Remutaka, Kaimanawa and Raukumara ranges, lack any natural lakes at all. In the South Island, however, retreating glaciers have left a large number of lakes, notably in Fiordland and the central Southern Alps.
Here are seven superbly located lakeside huts.
Sandy Bay Hut
Te Urewera
Sandy Bay Hut lies just metres from the shore of Lake Waikareiti, arguably one of the prettiest lakes in the North Island. It’s reached on a gentle track from Aniwaniwa, which takes about 4hr. Like its larger neighbour, Waikaremoana, Waikareiti was formed by a landslide, but much earlier (18,000 years ago as opposed to 2200), hence its more rounded terrain and mound-like islands.
Colenso Hut
Ruahine Forest Park
Māori know this small lake as Kokopunui, and in times past made seasonal hunting visits here to gather fish and birds. Nestled in a basin above the Mangatera River beneath limestone cliffs, Lake Colenso doesn’t quite meet the official size of a lake. Its European name remembers missionary explorer William Colenso, though he didn’t actually visit it. Access is possible on several tracks: from the east via Colenso Spur, Tupari and the track over Potae, or from the west via the Mokai Patea tops and Maropea Valley (both take about two days). The Backcountry Trust recently restored nearby Colenso Hut, and it’s a comfortable place to stay.
Kōhanga Atawhai – Manson Nicholls Hut
Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve
Lake Daniell is one of the most attractive of the several lakes in the backcountry surrounding Lewis Pass. There have been three huts on its shores, the first of which was destroyed in a rockslide that tragically killed three people in 1976. A replacement hut, named the Manson-Nicholls Memorial Hut, commemorated the victims, and served well for the next 44 years. In 2020 DOC opened this large new 20-bunk replacement hut. Reached on an easy 2hr track from the Marble Hill Campsite, it’s a great place to take young children for their first overnight tramp. Remember to book the hut beforehand.
Lake Alabaster Hut
Fiordland National Park
The mighty Hollyford River thunders through northern Fiordland into Lake McKerrow, beneath the formidable spires and turrets of the Darran Mountains. The Hollyford Track provides easy access into the valley. Wāwāhi Waka / Lake Alabaster is a tranquil spot, situated at the southern end of the major tributary river, the Pyke. The 26-bunk Lake Alabaster Hut is positioned on its shores, on the second day of the Hollyford Track.
Green Lake Hut
Fiordland National Park
Green Lake occupies a large basin beneath the range, and is another body of water formed by a huge landslide – in this case, a stupendous collapse of a mountain range some 12,000–13,000 years ago. Scientists rate it as the largest in New Zealand, and possibly one of the largest known in the world.
Green Lake Hut (12 bunks), built by DOC in 2008, sits in a sunny position above the lake. It’s reached either on the 3–4hr track from the Borland Road, or by traversing the tops from Borland Saddle. Both routes can be combined to form a satisfying weekend tramp.
Lake Chalice Hut
Mt Richmond Forest Park
Lake Chalice was formed by a large landslide that blocked the Goulter River some 2000 years ago. The resulting lake snakes up-valley for almost three kilometres. Set back from the northwestern tip of the lake is eight-bunk Lake Chalice Hut. It’s reached on a short track from Staircase Road, which takes about 40min. Stay the night, then spend a day tramping around Lake Chalice (allow 2hr), taking note of the impressive boulder wall dam that formed after the landslide.
Coldwater Hut
Nelson Lakes National Park
The bed of Lake Rotoiti was carved by a glacier and filled with melting water as the ice retreated during the last ice age. There are two huts on its shores. Lakehead Hut sits 500m from the water, and Coldwater Hut, although smaller, older and colder, has great appeal for its location right at the water’s edge). Access is either by water taxi or by the track that circumnavigates Lake Rotoiti. Allow 3hr from St Arnaud for the walk.






