With a fast car and a fine weekend, there is no telling the beautiful sites you could see on New Zealand roads. The same diversity which makes it the best filming location on earth also makes Aotearoa the finest for road trips. World class coastline, the serrated spine of the Southern Alps, living, breathing rainforests, volcanic deserts – it’s all there, and it’s all ‘just down the road’. Curate a playlist, buy some snacks, pack your boots and a towel, and hit the road.
1 Finding true north, Twin Coast Discovery Highway, 800km
No place in Aotearoa impacts quite like Te Rerenga Wairua, Cape Reinga.
In te ao Māori, it’s the departing place of spirits who slide down the roots of an ancient and precariously-perched pohutukawa into the ocean and onwards to ancestral Hawaiiki. Regardless of your beliefs, the spot stirs your senses. Howling winds – common on the exposed fingertip of land – blow the cobwebs (and then some) from your head. In a westerly, you may hear the Pacific and Tasman meet in a running embrace, an airport reunion with a slap of spray. Salt and mānuka flowers fill the nose, and in every direction, deep blue. No matter your northern itinerary, let this be the crescendo.
The best way to get yourself there and back is well-documented, but hard to beat; the Twin Coast Discovery Highway. Like arteries and veins, State Highways 1, 10 and 12 direct tourist traffic around this well signposted Northland loop. At the northernmost junction, a detour on SH1 leads to the heart – Cape Reinga – but otherwise, there are many wonderful capillaries to explore.
‘The Loops’, as I’ve come to call them, are two worthwhile diversions on the east coast. The first, if heading north, is the Tutukaka Coast, and takes in Tutukaka, Matapouri Bay with its stunning walk to private Whale Bay, Woolleys Bay, Sandy Bay, and Daisy Bay. If you have time, a chartered boat trip to the Poor Knights Islands offers an underwater dreamland, once rated by Jacques Cousteau as amongst the world’s 10 best dives.
The second loop detours north of Kerikeri to take in tropical Matauri Bay, home of the sunken Rainbow Warrior (now a dive site), Te Ngaere Bay, Wainui Bay and Mahinepua Bay, with its stunning peninsula walk. Be sure to visit Tauranga Bay on your return to the highway – it’s well worth the detour.
The Bay of Islands is another essential stop, but don’t think you’ve seen it all at Paihia. The real magic is getting on the water and exploring the islands. Ferry services connect Paihia with the quaint seaside town of Russell and Urupukapuka Island – the largest island in the bay, and home to flourishing native birds, numerous beaches and campgrounds, a fantastic track network and – no, you’re not dreaming – a pub.
