Fiordland rain had prevented me twice from climbing Gertrude Saddle, but the third time I made it. In clear weather, the marvellous day walk provides views to rival the Milford Track, straight down the barrel of a golden-green glacial valley to distant Piopiotahi.

The route departs from a gravel car park east of Homer Tunnel.  The track is well-trodden, though it’ll pay to keep your navigational eyes open among the tussock and boulders of the latter half. For the first hour it’s a pleasant valley stroll through a calf-scratching assortment of colourful alpine plants. 

The serious climb then begins in earnest, and several signs warn not to step off track, particularly in wet weather. Follow the orange triangles to cross the stream before winding upward. 

You may not see the pīwauwau rock wren, although you could hear its three-note cry – the valley is an important stronghold of this threatened bird.

Granite slabs provide the most exciting hiking on this route. In dry weather, boots stick fast to the rock, but when it’s wet, the terrain is deadly. Intermittent sections of wire provide assistance on the steepest sections. 

Black Lake – actually a deep blue – announces the beginning of the final 100m push. Continue to climb among the boulder fields until the route levels to reveal the glorious saddle.