For most of the way from the lighthouse at Cape Palliser, follow a rough 4WD track that skirts the coastline until White Rock Beach. The route follows the base of the Aorangi Range and passes through private property, so keep to the track.

From the car park, head east along the coast. For the first 45 minutes there are rocky outcrops with the steep, dominating greywacke cliffs being smothered in flax on exposed outcrops and mānuka which colonises the embryonic soils.

After 3km, shortly before crossing the shallow, narrow Waitetuna Stream, the remains of Māori-built stone walls can be seen running perpendicular to the shore. The walls are the work of Te Tini o Awa and were built as early as the year 1230. They demarcated areas for gardening and have provided archaeological insight into the culture of New Zealand’s earliest settlers. Up to 30 stone walls, most of them 1–2m wide, have been unearthed. Small beach boulders were commonly used and placed in neat parallel rows.

After rounding the promontory, the track continues northeast for 2km before traversing the Ngapotiki Fan, which is recognised as one of the finest examples of a gravel fan. Forest clearance has exposed the rock to rain, sun, frost and wind that loosen particles, which are later transported by water down the gully and deposited as an alluvial fan. At the sea an eroded margin leaves an unstable cliff face, which has been gnawed at for around 1800 years since the fan’s formation. The large boulders, probably brought down in mudflows, are known by geologists as ‘goolies’.

The track now undulates, passing Ngapotiki Lodge. Although the 4WD track continues, it’s an easy 3km walk along the beach to the conspicuous white rock at the far end. The shingle can be soft going, but it’s firmer higher up the beach.

White Rock is known by surfers as having some of the biggest waves in New Zealand. 

The 20m rock itself is a remnant of a huge sheet of limestone that covered the region 50–60 million years ago and has since been lifted and tilted to expose a spearhead-shaped rock, the brilliant white of which contrasts markedly with the black of the beach. Traces of fossils are preserved in the rock. Take care exploring the vicinity as the waves can be unpredictable.

Return via the same track. It is only marginally quicker to drive the circuitous route around to White Rock from Cape Palliser.